Fashion 🌀 Re-Spiral: Seeing Stripes
✨ fashion deep dive focused email ✨ let's look at the trend: Stripes *this was originally posted July 2023 - I'm updating it with new links and stories.
via Getty Images - Jane Birkin in a stripe top
🛍️ This post is long (too much good stuff to share!) so you may need to hit “expand” or read it in your browser - I promise it will be worth it! 🛍️
Welcome to my Fashion 🌀 Spiral, where I curate and share the articles and content that spark my curiosity and send me down rabbit holes of history, design, trends and fashion discovery. From the latest trends to fashion and style moments and our beloved “basics.” I generally see a seed of a trend or idea and I can’t get it out of my head because it leads to past history, inspiration or a whole broader curation. Today, let’s spiral on Stripes!
Picture this: a casual meet-up with friends and all three show up wearing a stripe top and denim bottoms. A moment of sartorial synchronicity that even caught the attention of my husband, prompting him to ponder the delightful mystery behind our unintentional twinning - what is it about stripes that made us all pull the same pattern from our closets.
In this edition, we're diving into the timeless allure of stripes, exploring how this classic pattern continues to captivate and inspire in the ever-evolving world of fashion. So let’s unravel the history of this item and then enjoy some links to stripes - from classics to vintage to non-traditional.
Fashion History: THE STRIPE
The Breton stripe, also known as the Marinière or sailor stripe, has a rich history dating back to the 19th century. Originally worn by French sailors in the Brittany region, the Breton stripe was characterized by its alternating white and navy blue horizontal stripes (narrow and evenly spaced), with each stripe symbolizing one of Napoleon's victories. The traditional version had 21 stripes. The design not only served a practical purpose of making sailors easier to spot if they fell overboard but also became a timeless fashion statement.
In the early 20th century, the Breton stripe gained popularity beyond the sea, thanks to cultural icons like Coco Chanel. Chanel famously introduced the Breton stripe to the world of high fashion in her 1917 nautical-inspired collection, where she incorporated the pattern into garments such as sweaters and t-shirts. Chanel's embrace of the Breton stripe revolutionized women's fashion, transforming it from a utilitarian garment into a symbol of effortless chic. To this day, stripes and nautical themes continue to be a design element in Chanel, especially for Spring/Summer (see here from 2015 Spring/Summer.)
Fast forward to the mid-20th century, and the Breton stripe found its way into mainstream fashion, with brands like Saint James leading the charge. Founded in 1889 in Normandy, France, Saint James became synonymous with quality striped garments, particularly the classic striped t-shirt. Saint James elevated the Breton stripe t-shirt to an iconic status, beloved for its timeless appeal and enduring craftsmanship.
Over the years, the Breton stripe has remained a staple in fashion, transcending trends and seasons. Its versatility and timeless allure have made it a favorite among designers and fashion enthusiasts alike. From runway collections (John Paul Gaultier) to street style, the Breton stripe continues to inspire and captivate, proving that some fashion trends are truly timeless.
Other important moments in stripe t-shirt fashion history include:
James Dean in "Rebel Without a Cause" (1955): Dean's iconic look, featuring a white t-shirt with black stripes, cemented the striped t-shirt's status as a symbol of youthful rebellion and cool.
Jean Seberg in "Breathless" (1960): Seberg's character, Patricia, epitomized Parisian chic with her striped t-shirt and cropped pants, inspiring countless fashion trends and becoming an enduring style icon.
Andy Warhol's Factory Scene (1960s): The striped t-shirt became a uniform of sorts for the artistic elite, with figures like Warhol and his entourage sporting the look as a nod to both French style and counterculture cool.
The Preppy Movement (1980s): Striped t-shirts became synonymous with preppy fashion, thanks to brands like Ralph Lauren and Lacoste incorporating the pattern into their collections. The striped t-shirt became a staple in the wardrobes of those seeking a classic, refined aesthetic. This classic stripe is born from the Rugby, and the stripe was pulled into rugby shirts as teams merged and solid color shirts for team differentiation ran out of colors. Stripes provided new color combinations.
These moments in fashion history showcase the enduring influence and appeal of the striped t-shirt, proving that its legacy extends far beyond its humble origins.
What about stripes makes it universal?
Stripes are classic (WSJ article circa 2015)
It is season-less. Looks just as relevant in winter as it does in summer (Vogue UK agrees)
Casual style but want to feel pulled together. Ease.
Retail availability - in less than .6 seconds Google pulled up About 64,800,000 results for a “stripe long sleeve top” which shows how frequently you are likely to find one when shopping any store, all price points and all seasons.
Coco Chanel in a striped Breton via Condé Nast Traveler and WSJ 1930 PHOTO: THE GRANGER COLLECTION / TOPFOTO
Let’s shop current stripe offerings:
Classic: Saint James (the history of the brand and the stripe shirt here from CN Traveler.)
Cheeky: Comme Des Garcon Play or grab one on The RealReal
Say Something: Kule 1973 (more about my go-to source for stripes, Kule designer, Nikki Kule, here from The Coveteur with major stripe inspo.)
Fresh Chick: La Ligne Sweater - and if you are making me only pick one stripe sweater from La Ligne, it has to be this one. I love the extra long ribbing on the sleeves, slightly fitted but slightly boxy fit and the perfect neckline. (Forbes article about how the brand La Ligne was founded around the stripe and a new Direct to Consumer - weekly drop model - to keep the consumer coming back for something fresh.) For more La Ligne content, check out this fantastic podcast episode that has an interview with the CEO/Co-Founder Molly Howard.
All images via links - Happy Shopping.
Chanel: since she helped bring it to the fashion set, let’s honor that with these resale items: tank and long sleeve.
Active: Lululemon stripe long sleeve, stripe sweatshirt, stripe short sleeve, stripe tank.
Classic: from J.Crew here and here and linen short sleeve here. and plenty of not so traditional from J.Crew: shorts, one-piece, pjs.
Cardigan: Alex Mill and this Alex Mill cardigan is perfect for work.
Button Details: Jardin Des Orangers
Short Sleeve: COS
To Get Noticed: Christopher John Rogers, CJR skirt resale, CJR oversized sweater resale and CJR mix n match resale, or this Allude via The RealReal.
Mens: Todd Snyder, Alex Mill Men’s, A.P.C. (inspo for French Guy Style from the WSJ circa 2019 still classic)
Kids: Boden
More brands to consider: AYR, Everlane, Buck Mason (love this one), Veronica Beard, Nili Lotan. And the Secret Strategist swears by the brand Mads Norgard which you can’t ship to the US, but second hand there are great options here, here, and here. (Find full link to Sarah’s Retail Diary ShopMy on Stripes here.)
Image via Harper’s Bazaar 2019 classic stripes: Breton Saint James’ 130 year anniversary.
Trenches - another history and fashion 🌀 spiral 🌀 for our next fashion moment. What do you think? Do you have a favorite stripe in your closet you want to share? Leave a comment and share.
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Love this Sarah! I am a stripe addict …. This sang to me !
Ahh, the Breton stripe. It's always been a classic, but I think starting in the late 2000s pinterest/mariniere themed Tumblrs and blogs really helped spread the popularity. An essential and permanent component of my wardrobe uniform :)