Retail Diary: This Will Be Quick 3.25.24 - Fashion & Canceling, Algorithms & Style and more
Fashion and designers getting "canceled", algorithms and style, podcasts I'm enjoying, short video snippets and wrapping up with many random (but relevant) article links.
Images via all the sources linked below.
🛍️ This post is long (too much good stuff to share!) so you may need to hit “expand” or read it in your browser - I promise it will be worth it! 🛍️
This Will Be Quick is where I share content that is at the top of my list this week. Tends to have a fashion or retail focus but not always.
What I’m reading…📰
I recently read Vanessa Friedman’s article in the NYTimes titled “Has Fashion Canceled Canceling” (gift link to read behind paywall) because there are brands, one in particular, that I find it hard to believe people with a platform, are still supporting. Even after no real apology or change, I believe in the possibility of change and forgiveness in many cases, but there are certain things that still surprise me.
And added to my TBR1 pile: Steven Kurutz, a Styles reporter for the NYTimes, has a new book documenting US Manufacturing and the visionaries pushing to bring it back (from WWD: “in 1980, around 70 percent of the clothing worn by Americans was made domestically. Today, that figure is 2 percent.”) Kurutz’s book: “American Flannel: How a Band of Entrepreneurs Are Bringing the Art and Business of Making Clothes Back Home.”
Recent Substack Finds:
- had me thinking about Magazines from her recent post. I still love magazines and flip through as many as I can. After living in NYC for a few years it became apparent that I would not be able to keep every magazines I ever read and subscribed to as I planned to. Of course that was after I made my brother drive from NYC to my childhood home in VA schlepping a trunk loaded with Vogue, Bazaar, InStyle, Lucky etc. I finally faced the reality and only keep a select few but throwing these treasures out still haunts me.
Elle Sundberg also linked to this great piece from
of titled “better sources of inspiration than pinterest” and it will make you dream of a day to yourself to wander a city and just be an observer. (Although, Pinterest did inspire my kids to clean up their room after they saw so many cool kids bedrooms featured and that is a massive win in my house!!!)More thoughts on inspiration and algorithms, the article from WhoWhatWear “Algorithms Be Damned - Why Personal Style Matters More Than Ever” features Substackers
and .
What I’m listening to…🎧
A bunch of podcasts in my queue and I’m working through them. Here is what I’ve listened to so far and enjoyed.
Second Life with
interviewing Karla Welch (celeb stylist) talking about The Period Company. They talk about her Barbie Red Carpet styling and her Re/done tshirt collab. I most appreciated hearing about how Welch is helping everyone with a period with her brand The Period Company. The website is well done, easy to navigate, features and benefits are clear and the site is engaging and dynamic.Lauren Sherman on Motley Fool Money discussing Abercrombie & Fitch and the turn-around Fran Horowitz has been leading. Sherman was also on another episode of Motely Fool Money talking about Guess, Gap and denim.
What I’m watching…📺
Quick snippets:
I’m a Mickey Drexler fan so I read and watch it all. Nothing new learned here, but still worth my time. NYPost takes us on a tour of the Alex Mill offices with Mickey Drexler. I also need a Shpilkes sign.
Anyone else a Carine Roitfeld fan? She shared some of her closet favorites with Vestiaire Collective I could watch another hour of her touring her wardrobe.
Trending…🚀
Revisiting trends with new links
Trends posted recently with new links I’ve found:
East-West Bags (review the trend here - all the East-West bags linked here) more links I’ve found:
Issey Miyake has an elegant texture and a price point under $700 here and here.
Gorgeous Ferragamo that was inspired by a vintage trunk. Beautiful and elegant.
I spotted this leather rosette adorned East-West bag on Gab Waller’s instagram.
- shared this great find and I co-sign for the East-West look. (The whole new collection is very minimalist/quiet luxury inspired.)
How about some East-West bling?
Bag Charms (review the trend here and here - and all charms here) I clearly really love this trend.
I saw this Fortune Teller charm and felt nostalgic for the ones I made but also even more amazed by the ones my daughter creates now. Love that this is still a thing.
All images via links above and below.
All My Open Tabs…💻
Tried this in the Sunday Scoop and it worked well - allows me to share a lot of content quickly. So here is everything I’m swirling about at the moment:
Mini bags for evening, practical and a status symbol - NYTimes “What’s the Point of a Tiny Evening Bag” - which had me thinking of this bag and this moment. Then I found this charm which is fabulous to recreate the moment and had me thinking of
and her hilarious post on her dollhouse Eames. Ouai founder Jen Atkin, Mary Phillips and Justine Marjan have launched Highlights Artists, a talent management company that will represent Atkin, Marjan and Phillips, in addition to men’s groomers and more hairstylists and makeup artists. From Business of Fashion, “What a Fashion Company is Worth Today” explores the pulse of the fashion industry's deal market as it navigates challenges and opportunities - including insights on valuations, challenges, and strategies for brands amidst shifting market conditions. (Interesting stats: in 2016 there were 232 deal counts for M&A, in 2020 152 and in 2023 118. And Jenny Gyllander Founder of Thingtesting has some interesting quotes at the end of the article too.) Glossy Pop newsletter wrote about the trend of Brides-to-be using TikTok to leverage their bachelorette parties as a PR gifting extravaganza. I think this is pretty genius and a great idea for brands, PR and bridal parties. What a cool way to turn your target demographic into a gifting suite and get trial and product seeding into the right hands. (I’m just waiting for more companies to pop-up to turn the operational aspect of this into a business.) Want more? Modern Retail wrote about the bachelorette gifting with Lemon Perfect brand. Artemis Patrick will take over as CEO of North America for Sephora next month as the first female CEO of Sephora North America. In this Forbes article we learn more about her background and the future focus for the retailer. What is going on with DTC retailer stores as Allbirds is closing 10-15 locations and Outdoor Voices recently closed up IRL shops. Kendra Scott is expanding into lab grown diamonds, which makes a lot of sense for this brand. You can see the full assortment here (priced between $500-$2950.) I’m pleased that for now they are doing their own take on the styles vs similar styles to Dorsey, that has really nailed the tennis necklace look. Model Gisele Bundchen has a new cookbook “Nourish: Simple Recipes to Empower Your Body and Feed Your Soul” out later this month so she is getting press from WSJ, The Cut and NYTimes (gift link to read behind paywall - written by Mattie Kahn who is a fantastic journalist!)One last find - very into these Prada-stocks.
What’s Next 🗓️
Deep Dive on Thursday and based on everyone’s feedback (thank you!!) we are officially adding more beauty retail news to Sarah’s Retail Diary. Later this week I’ll also share a Fashion 🌀 Spiral full of history and trends of the Trench Coat. These have been fun to mix it up and write - digging into the fashion archives and shopping for styles (with my virtual $$ of course.)
Recent posts to catch up on:
Thursday’s Deep Dive: Week of March 18th 2024 - iconic tailor's legacy, Dries Van Noten's retirement & Beauty News
Sunday Scoop: Piccioli, Beckham & Substacks to Scroll
Last Week’s: This Will Be Quick 3.19.24 - Phoebe Philo, Todd Snyder, Rodarte, Bag Charms and more
Retail 101: Math & Financials and Retail 101: Math & Financials Part Deux - Markdowns
FYI: I use affiliate links where applicable which means I may get a small commission from things you buy (at no cost to you.) Thank you for supporting my work and trusting me. Love that we can enjoy Fashion & Retail together in this space.
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TBR = To be read (for books)
East / West has my heart these days…! Thanks for the shout out xo
Thank you so much for providing gift links! It is such a nice way to direct us to insightful articles and avoid being disappointed because there is no access! I'll be waiting my lunch break to read that Vanessa Friedman's article!