Retail Diary - Deep Dive - Week of May 20th 2024 - my issue with "dupes", blush renaissance, Collabs & more

Fashion Business news is hot this week! I share my thoughts on "dupes" looking at the latest innovation in blush and so much more.

May 23, 2024

🛍️ Quick note: I write a lot (too much good stuff to share!) so if you’re reading via email only, you may need to click through to the web version or read on the Substack app. I promise it will be worth it. 🛍️

This Week's Topics:

Who Approves of Dupes?
Making Me Blush
Brand Closures
Collabs
New Launches
New Store Openings
The Business Section
New Deliveries
What else I ❤️️

Who Approves of Dupes?

I find this article from The Guardian, and republished in Business of Fashion, very troubling and frustrating. I’m not the only one as you can see from this Instagram post’s comments. Here is why I find it frustrating, troubling and problematic:

The term "dupe" is being misused and incorrectly applied to basic product types that are common across multiple brands. A generic legging is not a "dupe" of a specific brand's legging; it is simply another variation of the same product category.
I’ll also mention, I see no problem with saying “Like this type of design or look, here are other items to try.” Because not everyone can afford or wants to buy designer everything. But you can love quilted handbags at $98 without it having to be a “dupe” of a quilted handbag at $10,000 with a designer logo illegally used.
The image in the BoF article is clearly meant to be a Goyard tote. Goyard has trademarked this material and pattern because it is a special treatment and manufacturing. So to suggest it is either appropriate, ethical, legal and should be embraced by the brand is wild. Additionally, it is well known that the treatment of individuals in the factories to make the knock-offs is atrocious and despicable.
Promoting and encouraging the purchase of counterfeit or knockoff products is unethical and harmful to original brands that invest significant resources into developing unique designs and products. The media and industry leaders should not glorify or give any airtime to such practices, as it undermines the efforts of businesses and creatives trying to operate sustainably and ethically.
I did like the Lululemon trade-in marketing effort though. I think it handled the knock-off conversation in a way to show, “we have superior leggings and we want you to try them.” To me that is not “dupe” acceptance.
Instead of celebrating and advertising "dupes" and knock-offs, the focus should be on supporting and promoting original brands that create innovative and authentic products through their own creativity and hard work. Encouraging the purchase of knockoffs or counterfeits is not only unethical but also discourages innovation and originality in the industry.

Overall, the article's portrayal of "dupe culture" as a positive trend to be embraced is highly problematic. It undermines the efforts of original brands, promotes unethical practices, and sends the wrong message to consumers. We should not advertise or highlight such practices, as they can severely hurt businesses that are trying to succeed through legitimate and sustainable means.

In the comments, please shout out any brands, founders or designers you’d like to see get more press and customers. No need to mention a dupe or knock-off.

Making Me Blush

Let’s break down the Blush insights from this Business of Fashion article “Why Everyone is in Love with Blush Again” by Daniela Morosini
- Blush had fallen out of favor in exchange for bronzer and contouring/highlighting shades. The TikTok trends of “strawberry girl” and “tomato girl” have brought blush back to our cheeks.
- “In the US, blush sales in the prestige market were up 60 percent in 2023 to $427 million, while unit sales increased 58 percent, according to market research firm Circana. Mascara sales – a much more seemingly quotidian product – generated $595 million, only a 6 percent increase.”
- Increased amount of innovation in this category. What was traditionally a powder brick only product, has been disrupted to include creams, gels, sticks and liquids. Another innovation/trend is the idea that a liquid blush can react to your own personal skin for a personalized effect.
- Creating a look that is dewy and healthy is what many are going for - the youthful glow.
Rhode Beauty has been teasing a blush, and the rumor is that the launch is coming in the next few weeks/months. Many are wondering if an acquisition of Rhode is on the horizon and having a new product launch in the makeup category could be huge (Saie Beauty listed in the article linked above that their #1 Dew Blush is responsible for 30% of the brand’s revenue.) Hailey Beiber gave us Strawberry Donut Glaze before, so what’s in store for Summer ‘24? Cherry Cheek?
I feel like I can personally see this impact in my own make-up drawer. For about 15 years the only blush I wore was this. Then I added the same shade in the stick format. With the launch of Westman Atelier this became a favorite along with this. These cute pots are easy and I do a swipe on my cheeks and lips (especially before a zoom.) This is super popular, especially with Gen ZAlpha (use a tiny amount and blend with a brush like this one) and with the Jones Road Beauty minis Miracle Balms back in stock I ordered a 4 pack to try.
The newest Blush launch is the Kosas Blush is Life Baked Dimensional & Brightening Blush. It is baked with squalane + hyaluronic acid to be skincare & healthy glow in one. There is a nice range of colors and from a merchandising POV I love how the PDP includes blush & lip color pairings they suggest. Great way to upsell and help the consumer find the right combo.

Brand Closures

In the Sunday Scoop we discussed Mara Hoffman “pausing” her business. Sadly we have a few more to discuss today.
The Vampire’s Wife is closing. I wasn’t completely surprised as there were a lot of financial challenges this past summer. I went to an event last summer and flipped out over the woman I saw wearing this dress. Gorgeous! There are plenty of fabulous options on TRR.
Madeline Schulz wrote for Vogue Business on the closures, how they got to this point and why it matters. Matches owed The Vampire’s Wife over $40K in US dollars, a significant amount to a brand that is struggling.
Additional notes on closures are Calvin Luo, a Chinese Designer who has had a line for 10 years and AZ Factory, late designer Alber Elbaz’s line. AZ Factory is transitioning to be an educational resource for independent designers, operating as AZ Academy.
These articles and stories of closing really amplify the idea that many businesses and designers might seem to be “incredible” on the outside and winning awards and dressing celebrities etc. but struggling financially. It also enforces the idea that getting the right mix between wholesale and DTC is so important. It is different for every business but you need to find the right formula for your brand.

Collabs

Amy Francombe wrote for Vogue Business “What Makes a Good Collaboration in 2024?” Highlights from the article:

For collaborations to be successful now, they need to have a strong narrative, offer a quality co-designed product, or be truly innovative.
Crocs has been one of the most successful collaborators, partnering with various brands and characters like Simone Rocha, Balenciaga and even Pringles.
Adidas' collaboration with Grace Wales Bonner and Corteiz's collaborations with Supreme and Nike have also been successful.
Collaborations need to have an authentic story and reason beyond just combining brand equity and making money. Loewe x On (see more below) is a great example of storytelling and strong design coming together.

Loewe x On

For their 5th collaboration, Loewe x On partnered on a collab that includes clothing as well with this collection.
The launch was available online exclusively to customers who pre-registered to shop the drop early (brilliant way to grow their known consumer email list.)
I love the overlap of the Loewe and On logo as a special detail.

Proenza Schouler x Vans

Coming soon - in less than a week. I cannot wait!
With these having a moment, a collab with PS is fantastic and I’m hoping for a fun fashion moment. See the hot moment Vans is having and Morgan Stewart blowing up here.
Remember when PS collabed with Birkenstock? PS does well with a shoe collab.

More Collabs:

Sporty & Rich x Addidas has a new launch!
Rimowa x Aimé Leon Dore read more from Hypebeast here.
Clare V. x Creative Growth to celebrate Creative Growth’s 50th Anniversary and an exhibit at the SF Moma.
Paperless Post is celebrating 15 years by collabing with partners like Oscar de la Renta, John Derian, Monique Lhuillier, Schumacher, Derek Blasberg, Liberty London, Marimekko, Jonathan Adler, and more.
Jeneé Taylor, a content creator, collabed with Target on their Future Collective collection. You can shop the collection here.
Gray Malin x Janie & Jack is an adorable collab for the littles.

New Launches

Discovered via
Jess Graves
that Little Liffner launched a jewelry line.
My Gen Alpha daughter announced to me that Sol de Janeiro launched 3 new limited edition scents. Thrilled I’m training a new generation of retail enthusiasts.
The Ancient Greek Sandals jelly flip flops are available now - the flip flop of summer.
Hill House Home launched in Liberty London and released a new artists capsule collection. The Matilda Dress in the Diane Hill Blue Chinoiserie is gorgeous for a summer garden party.
Kate Spade resurrecting their ‘90s baguette in new prints for Urban Outfitters exclusive is brilliant. This is the right moment for this bag. The shape of this bag with ‘90s nostalgia is super popular so I love that Kate Spade dug into the archives for this. The price point feels a little high for UO. You can shop it here. Or go vintage here or here. Both less than $100. I would have priced this at $98 at UO or $148 at Anthropologie. Included leather strap in the $148 version. It feels like the precursor to this handbag and this bag and the little sister to this 90’s bag and who can say the word “baguette” without mentioning this.
Rumer Willis launched Rumer Has It (great name!) which seems to be another Goop type site. In the sense of content & shopping site based around Rumer’s interest and “brand.”
Another in the fragrance category - Fendi launched a 7 piece luxury collection of fragrances.

New Store Openings

I want to also celebrate new stores opening up. I noticed a few this week.

Balenciaga opens their first location in Chicago.
Loewe opens its first South American store in Sao Paulo.
La Ligne just opened their sixth and largest location in Boston this week. Knowing the location has a lot of universities in the area and graduations now, they are planning events around this. Charleston, S.C. is the next location for the brand.

The Business Section

Jacob Gallagher wrote an interesting article for WSJ on Hodinkee, an editorial luxury watch website that also acquired luxury watch reseller Crown & Caliber. “Hodinkee Bulit a $100 Million Watch Empire. Then the Market Tanked” (gift link to read behind paywall) It’s a wild ride and a lesson of what can happen in a volatile luxury market with a roller coaster of an economy. Compounding issues include the acquisition and merging of company cultures.
Chanel announces revenue up 16% and my assumption is a big part of that is from beauty and accessories. Especially handbags with significant price increases and the strength of the ballet flat and shoes in general.
Exec team shuffles at Lululemon.
Great article from BoF on the challenges facing Beautycounter, specifically around the Consultants - aka Sales team and MLM network. This is another place where the juggle between wholesale and DTC (MLM) is a challenge. Additionally, the brand was invested in when there were not as many options in the Clean Beauty space.
E.L.F. Beauty announces hitting $1 Billion in sales. CEO Tarang Amin also talks expansion into Mexico. E.L.F. Beauty also announced that Naturium Skincare will enter Ulta stores this summer. Even more growth coming!
WSJ covered Me+Em and other British fashion brands expanding in the US. The clothes are great for the US market and some great new items including this white maxi, beautiful party print, on trend mesh ballet flats that cover your toes (for days the pedicure has chipped) and this vacation ready cover-up/dress.
Department Stores are on shaky ground, but Macy’s shares a win. They are testing new ideas in 50 locations, with sales up. Though the extra attention from corporate in those locations may have played a role, if they can execute in more stores, it'd be a huge win.
Skims is offering 30% off shapewear for one day only (Thursday 5/23/24) - possibly ahead of summer wedding season or to support sales when the category slows down (not ideal to wear tight, restricting undergarments in the summer.)
Freda Salvador has their Warehouse Sale going on now too. The Millie Fisherman Sandal is a good wear now style.

New Deliveries

Discovered via
Magpie by Jen Shoop
, more very upscale and ladylike straw bags launched from Pamela Munson. Loving the Park Tote, the Teddy and the Arden mini in black.
These Amanu sandals are basically foot jewelry. Very much in the barely there and ornamental jewelry shoe trend I’ve written about. Another great Amanu sandal if you plan to have a colorful summer.
Bubble skirts have been trending. This Co version is a great midi length and has sold out at a few retailers but available in all sizes here or a mini from Sea in a windbreaker fabric.
Work ready dress. Love a one and done for summer.
Doen newness - since I returned everything I tried from the Gap collab I loved the timing of the new summer drop this week. I’m trying this shirt (it is the tank version of my favorite top I wore yesterday) and I also ordered this black mini dress since I’ve had my eye on it. I love how
Leandra Medine Cohen
wears her mini white Doen dress with pants so maybe I’ll be daring and try that look too.
LOL if you loved the Beckham documentary.
Loewe did a mini puzzle fold clutch with a thin leather shoulder strap. Would be great to also use in a larger tote for when you want to just run out during the work day.
Another great longer length pair of denim shorts for summer 2024. And a pair priced well at Mango.
The other trend I keep seeing more of, the two tone summer dress. New exclusively on net: love the black on top t-shirt style from Esse Studios, perfect tank here and the black & brown combo is so rich looking.
Someone was looking for an elbow length french feeling stripe top to wear with denim shorts, and I saw this and gasped!
Bottega Veneta Intrecciato metallic loafers sold fast! Fancy feet.
Net-a-porter launched Rue de Verneuil totes. Classic and perfect for summer travel and work.
Pretty (The) Great blouson sleeve chore coat. The blouson sleeves made me think of the Gap x Doen denim jacket everyone loved.
Gauzy summer shirt on sale under $50 at J.Crew.
Stripes or dots at La Ligne (options in skirts too - stripes and dots.)

What else I ❤️️

Carolyn Bessettte Kennedy’s Yohji Yamamoto dress will go up for auction. It is a classic and beautiful look. If you love a black wrap dress (it is classic) might I suggest this Zimmermann, Zimmermann is also frequently on TRR here and here, and TRR also has a similar style from DVF for under $100 and this Dries Van Noten is the same idea (black wrap dress) but more sleek and architectural that still feels very CBK coded.
If you have FOMO over missing the
Liana Satenstein
interview with Plum Sykes like me, we are in luck! You can listen here. I added the new Sykes book to my TBR pile.
Change of Fashion sponsored by McDonald’s featuring amazing designers & mentors.
NYTimes remembers Bruce Nordstrom and here too.
Great listen from
Anne Helen Petersen
“There Has to be a Better Way to Shop Online” and enjoyed learning more about
The Millennial Decorator
Julia Rabinowitsch from this podcast with Pia Baroncini from the podcast Everything Is the Best.

What's Next?

Enjoy your Memorial Day Weekend. Maybe I’ll keep the Sunday Scoop short and sweet (lol, like I can do that.) I’m hoping for a low key long weekend and want to catch up reading magazines and Substacks I subscribe to. I love it here on Substack and

Jess Graves

absolutely made my day yesterday with this in the chats. 😊 All the Substacks in that chat are incredible. So much to read and so little time.

Thanks for reading Deep Dive Edition 166

Sarah Shapiro