Deep Dive - Week of June 17th 2024 - Alessandro Michele's Valentino, Hermés, Summer of Beauty launches & more

Designer Dispatch filled with news and Beauty product launches you are going to want to try.

Sarah Shapiro

Jun 20, 2024

News from Valentino, Hermés, JW Anderson, Celine, Rhode, Glossier and more.

This Week's Topics:

Designer Dispatch
New Launches
New Collabs
New Deliveries & Back in Stock
New Store Openings & Pop-Ups
The Business Section
What else I ❤️️

Designer Dispatch

Alessandro Michele’s Valentino Surprise

Only two months into his time at Valentino, Alessandro Michele surprised the fashion industry and casually dropped a lookbook of 171 ready-to-wear looks and 93 accessories shots earlier this week.
- ‘Avant les Débuts’ (“before the beginnings”) is a co-ed collection that features what many felt to be “very Gucci” and Wes Anderson vibes collection, but there are many touches of Valentino in there too.
- What we are seeing is Valentino in a Alessandro Michele way but without the context of the overall vision for Valentino with Michele as the Creative Director.
- I love the visual picture that these two Instagram posts showcase. First is from .@bryanboy showcasing the comments from others along with the references that Michele was making to archive Valentino. Inspired by Bryan, .@tagwalk did something similar. Showcasing archive Valentino with the new pieces. Putting the context together like this makes such a different in really capturing the full Valentino past, present and let’s see where the future takes it. (Tip for The RealReal, Vestiaire Collective and more vintage/resale sites - would be cool to pull together archive pieces that Michele is referencing.)
- Vogue Business stated that “the designer has been particularly inspired by Valentino Garavani’s 1968 Sfilata Bianca collection.”
- You can see the full lookbook here from WWD. I’m impressed with not just the vastness of the collection, but how layered each look is. We aren’t talking about 171 simple dresses. 171 looks with jackets, capes, skirts, accessories. Super styled. That is a lot of work to put together in two months. How big is the team? What did they edit (if anything) out?
- Emma Apple Chozick
  check out look #98. Every time I see this color pairing (blue + red) I want to send to you. Chozick spotted this color trend and she is absolutely right.

More Designer News & Coverage

The Row’s Spring 2025 Menswear (Unisex) looks also dropped and if I could sum it up: flip flops stay fresh, red shoes, lovely lace and silk details (if you bought this J.Crew skirt keep it around to layer. If you haven’t bought yet you might want to reconsider), plan to grab grey crewneck sweaters and plaid flannel oversized button downs (this fantastic Jenni Kayne one is currently on sale.)
Chantal Fernandez profiles Hermés Designer Nadége Vanhée and how her vision is helping to lead the luxury leader forward and not fall into the challenging slump that other fashion houses are. The fact that Hermés has the focus on RTW and not just handbags and scarves has helped diversify the brand. “She Knows What the Birkin Set Want to Buy.” (I can’t help but mention the assumption by many customers that spending more in other areas of the fashion house will help open up the opportunity to buy a “quota bag” as in Birkin or Kelly. So perhaps that is also why overall sales stay strong??)
On the other end of the spectrum, Imran Amed writes for Business of Fashion “The Fashion System Is Creaking. Will It Collapse?” about the challenges at major fashion houses and retailers like Matches. He highlights the current crisis in the luxury fashion industry, where Gucci, Dior, Chanel, and others are struggling with creative stagnation, leadership changes, and declining sales. It suggests that the industry's focus on formulaic, commercialized approaches and reluctance to take creative risks is contributing to this crisis, resulting in a lack of inspiration and innovation that fails to captivate customers. Amed argues that a breakdown of the current system may be necessary for the industry to regain its courage and creativity. I think we are going through massive changes and readjustments now but will come out with stronger brands (at least with the ones that survive.)
JW Anderson continues to launch of the moment styles. For the ultimate in preppy style this new Loafer Bag is a great shape - wearable but also playful with the oversized loafer tab. For a bit more tongue-in-cheek, go for the tassel bag instead and have fun with it.
Between Miu Miu, Airmail, Puck News, I’m so here for Book Girl Summer! “Book girl summer: Why brands are leaning into the literary world” by Madeline Schulz for Vogue Business.
Kaia Gerber stars in Celine’s new Pilates collection campaign. Potentially giving more longevity to this item being central in gym fits.

New Launches

Rhode Pocket Blush is available today.
Glossier drops their summer capsule collection of 2 limited edition Ultralip colors, a comb and a claw clip.
- Executed well: I love the orange color (this is popping up everywhere right now. It feels like an under the radar color of the moment - see image below.) The products are absolutely spot-on for this time period. Love that they combined the Ultralip into a Duo to buy two. While they could have made it so you could only buy as a duo to increase AOV, making it so you have the option to just purchase one it keeps it as customer centered and gives the customer the choice.
- Opportunity: the landing page is great for imagery and showcasing the products, but you have to click into each separate PDP1 to add to cart. It would remove friction if there was a one click add all to cart or you could add directly from the LP. Could have put all products in a special orange bubble wrap ziplock bag and sell as a complete set.
  All these images were screenshots from my Instagram stories scroll right in a row - having a bit of an Orange Crush moment. Clockwise from top left: .@gabwallerdotcom finds Loro Piana K19 in Kyoto Orange, Miu Miu Sneakers with orange laces also from Gab Waller sourcing, Vogue Business journalist .@maddieschulz vacation snaps, Glossier Summer capsule, Away x La Ligne Bigger Carry-On in Spritz and Dagne Dover travel tote.
Skims nails the moment again featuring Nicola Coughlan in their Soft Lounge Long Slip Dress campaign.
Chanel launched a new bronzing powder, Healthy Glow Sun-Kissed Powder in 5 shades.
New lip products!
- Eadem launched an exfoliating and peptide lip balm with a glossy finish. Available in 5 shades.
- InnBeauty launched a new SPF glossy lip balm available in 3 shades.
Ciao Lucia launched a tennis collection with sets in green, white and light pink.
Love some of the new pieces from Rue Sophie. I wrote about the brand here and they are doing a great job of using consumer insights to drive their design and direction. I think they are priced appropriately and the quality is really well done. From the new delivery, these shorts are the length of the season (if you aren’t going micro mini) and give the feel and look of a nice pair of trousers but in shorts form. The back detail and neckline on this dress is simple but beautiful. And a black dress with a twist feels like the answer to any “what to wear” question.
Independent Designer announcement: Marrakshi Life is the latest brand to launch on Larroudé Colléct. The brand creates beautiful handwoven, made to order, slow fashion. The pieces are bright and beautiful! So vibrant.

New Collabs

Merit x Tove on the next kit, but sadly for us Americans, only appears to be available in the UK for their launch.

New Deliveries & Back in Stock

Meghan Markle's suede clutch from Cesta Collective sold out after she was spotted carrying it, but it's now back in stock - a must-have for its versatility, stunning color, and Markle's effortless style pairing it with navy. On the Cesta Collective website it is paired with red pants, and you know we love that. The perfect grab-and-go essential for any season or occasion and the perfect travel piece.
Preorder ship next week on Dorsey’s new Bennington daintier riviére necklace that would look really special glammed up worn in both the 15 and 17 inch layered together.
Larroudé has a new mule in a beautiful grey, butter yellow and raffia.
From Loeffler Randall I also like this light open toe mule - the ric rac and mesh keeps an open feeling on the foot.
This Altuzarra sweater feels like Flashdance is the best way - so pretty and elegant.
Love these dressy shorts from Vince. Would be fun to play wrong shoe theory with them and style in a playful way.

New Store Openings & Pop-Ups

Rhode Beauty pop-up in time to check out the Pocket Blush, new lip tints and iPhone lip tint cases. Opening next week in Soho, June 24th from 11am - 7pm. It is a limited time pop-up and expected to close July 3rd. Will be interesting to see if the inventory they ordered for the launch can cover online and in-store demand.
Not sure if this belongs in this category, but my head is exploding! Limited Too is returning?!?!? Who is this for? I wore Limited Too as a tween but I can’t imagine wearing it now, but it would be fun to take my Gen Alpha daughter there. I’m sure
Casey Lewis
will give us updates soon.
- Planning a heritage inspired collection. Leaning heavily into 1987.
- The retailer/brand launched in 1987 and eventually had around 600 locations nationwide at its peak, but got discontinued by parent company Tween Brands during the 2008 recession in favor of their cheaper Justice brand.
- BR Brand Holdings LLC has had the trademark since November 2021. BR has also had Catherine Malandrino and Nanette Lepore’s trademarks.

🛍️ Quick note: I write a lot (too much good stuff to share!) so if you’re reading via email only, you may need to click through to the web version or read on the Substack app. I promise it will be worth it. 🛍️

The Business Section

Vasiliki Petrou, the founding chief executive of Unilever's Prestige division, is leaving the company to launch her own investment fund after successfully leading the division's growth and acquisitions for the last 10 years.
At the end of 2023 I wrote my trends to keep an eye on in 2024.
- “GLP-1 drugs and the impact to the industry (we will see this in Fashion but also in Wellness, Healthcare, CPG (food & beverages) etc.)”
- We are now seeing the data and impact from this to the Fashion & Retail Industry. “Ozempic Fuels Hunt for Smaller Clothes” (gift link to read behind paywall from the WSJ) shares some insights and data points:
  - “About 5% of Lafayette 148’s customers are buying new outfits because they have lost weight, often replacing their size 12 clothes with size 6 or 8, according to Deirdre Quinn, the brand’s chief executive. The benefit is twofold; in addition to boosting sales, Lafayette 148 is saving money because smaller sizes use less fabric, Quinn said.” (interesting statement about saving money/increased margin. While true and accurate I’m just surprised to see it in writing.)
  - Loved the insight and innovation that one brand added lace-up corsets vs zippers to better accommodate fluctuating bodies and sizes making the clothing more functional and sustainable.
  - “Sales of the three largest sizes of women’s button-down shirts fell 10.9% in the first three months of 2024 compared with the same period in 2022 at a dozen brands, according to Impact Analytics, which helps retailers manage their inventory and size allocations.”
  - “Sales of those same button-down shirts in the three smallest sizes grew 12.1% over that period. Impact Analytics analyzed purchases in physical stores located on Manhattan’s Upper East Side. It focused its research on this area because it has the highest concentration of individuals in New York City taking these drugs specifically for weight loss, according to market research firm Trilliant Health.”
Emily Stewart wrote a great article for Business Insider titled “How Abercrombie Came Back From the Dead” and dives into the strategy that is working for CEO Fran Horowitz and the retailer’s success. I think it has to do with a tight control on inventory and a strong connection to the consumer and what they are interested in spending money on (experiences and merchandise that will enhance those experiences. Ex. celebrations, weddings, etc.)
Makeup by Mario, Kim Kardashian’s makeup artist’s line, has hired JP Morgan to explore options for the brand.
Every 6 seconds Sol de Janeiro sells a jar of Brazilian Bum Bum Cream and it is incredibly popular with tweens. I can confirm this fact (that it is popular with tweens.) On the brand’s website over 500 reviews are from customers under 18. More about the debate and concerns from NYTimes article here.
Fragrance has been growing and a big business for beauty, Business of Fashion took a look at the Sephora strategy. 1) lean into discovery and niche fragrances 2) the brands that make it are the ones that have the infrastructure in place to support growth 3) to differentiate from Ulta that are expanding in over $100 fragrances.
Insights as to what is next for Bloomingdale’s, new-ish CEO Olivier Bron (formerly COO and Director of Strategy for Galeries Lafayette in Paris) discusses plans for more storytelling, continuing to test and learn from small format stores, 59th Street renovations to the designer floors and a focus on improving handbags, shoes and overall accessories (I’m an accessories alum of Bloomingdale’s.) What I’d like to see is a focus on merchandising and trends. This is what Bloomingdale’s was always known for - must have merchandising mix and showcasing the trends in a variety of way. First to the trend and leading the direction for the customer. I was sad to see the word “trend/trends” zero times in the article and “merchandising” only twice. I’m not sure if this is the impact from the proliferation of product and being able to get merchandise anywhere (online) but this is what is at the heart of Bloomingdale’s and what is missing for me.

What else I ❤️️

White Skirt summer - from the WSJ “Get Ready to See This Skirt Everywhere This Summer” by Ashley Wong. The DÔEN skirt is so popular and driving this trend (“doen” is even in the URL for the WSJ article link even thought it isn’t in the headline.) This skirt is the one highlighted in the article.
- The skirt is expected to sell 6x more than LY.
- Sold out 7 times on the site
- Recently 3,000 waiting list for the recent restock
- I like how the white makes a long skirt less heavy for summer. But I still tend to wear all black, to make a skirt look and feel lighter for me I’ve been wearing this recently launched Black Lace Delphine Nap Skirt from Hill House Home* and I love it with a black tank or tshirt or a grey tshirt. This skirt is also available in white and here is another version available in a range of sizes and currently on sale for under $35.
Because I love data and metrics, so far the most popular white t-shirt from my Fashion Spiral is this one. Did you know it also comes striped?! Luxe, thick material and super soft.
Coolest bus ride ever - Le Catch a Jitney. No one hand picks better items - this curation is A+++ from
Marlien Rentmeester
and her sister Coliena Rentmeester.
Great podcast interview from Kat Collings for Who What Wear - if you love vintage or curious about celebrities dressing in vintage for big events (the Oscars, Met Gala) “Tab Vintage Founder Alexis Novak on Her Rarest Finds, Her New Showroom, and Why Glamour Is Back.” For more inspiration check out the Instagram here.
Liv Perez interviewed J.Crew Creative Director Olympia Gayot on her podcast Let’s Get Dressed “J.Crew's Olympia Gayot on Prep Fashion, Going From Design Director to Creative Director, and Bringing J.Crew Back To Life.” It is exciting to see J.Crew doing well again and showing some strong pieces this summer and I loved hearing about Gayot’s inspiration and process. Some recent inspired pieces: lemon yellow sundress, long white dress (sundress look, nightgown feel), vintage strawberry print and a beautiful summer top to frame your summer beads and pearls.
Christina Tumminello
you are right, I’m into these loafers. Driving mocs are the new loafer seen on Jennifer Lawrence.
Oh wow Substack - into the updates for viewing engagement and metrics on posts in the app. Very cool. Check it out fellow Substack authors/founders.
Deep dive from Vox on the state of loyalty programs. Great read for anyone in marketing, retention and building loyalty at a brand.

Any retail news you’ve been following this week? Retail questions I can help with?

Deep Dive - Week of June 17th 2024 - Alessandro Michele's Valentino, Hermés, Summer of Beauty launches & more

Designer Dispatch filled with news and Beauty product launches you are going to want to try.

Designer Dispatch

Alessandro Michele’s Valentino Surprise

More Designer News & Coverage

New Launches

New Collabs

New Deliveries & Back in Stock

New Store Openings & Pop-Ups

🛍️ Quick note: I write a lot (too much good stuff to share!) so if you’re reading via email only, you may need to click through to the web version or read on the Substack app. I promise it will be worth it. 🛍️

The Business Section

What else I ❤️️

Discussion about this post