Sunday Scoop - DVN's Farewell, Substack's Beauty Boom, and Socks That Show Your Age

Dries Van Noten's final collection, beauty brands' Substack success, sock style debates, and more fashion insights in a comprehensive style guide

Dries Van Noten’s Final Show

This weekend Dries Van Noten showed his final collection after launching his namesake label 38 years ago. From WWD interview with Miles Socha:

“Of course, I’m going to miss a lot of things,” Van Noten said. “But on the other hand, I will stay connected with the company. I’m not completely closing the door. I’m going to have an advising role. I’m going to be busy with makeup and beauty. I’m still going to be involved in store designs…but collections, that’s not going to be my job anymore.”

DVN’s first break in fashion was when Barney’s New York (RIP) placed an order and made the label one to watch. Unlike most other brands, RTW represents 95% of the Dries Van Noten business. (WOW! I wonder if future teams will work to build a more substantial accessories business without negatively impacting the RTW? Since handbags especially have higher margins that could be a successful addition.)

He sold his company to Puig in 2018, and this allowed him to open more boutiques, build a fragrance and beauty business and expand online with e-commerce. The studio designers will be the team designing the 2025 Womenswear collection.

A round-up of links from his last show:

• From .@stylenotcom on instagram: final look, final bow, dance party

• Vogue shared this on Instagram and Nicole Phelps and Luke Leitch share their thoughts here.

• Bazaar editors look back at some of their favorite DVN designs. (I might put this one on my favorite list. I saved the image years ago and still love it.)

Socks were big news this week

Are you team no-show or team crew? Both the NYTimes and Washington Post wrote about the generational divide in sock silhouettes.

• “A Sock War Is Afoot Between Millennials and Gen Z” from the NYTimes

• From the Washington Post “Your socks are showing your age”

At Retail Diary, all socks are welcome. I have and love these. Kule socks, great stripe detail here, no show 3 pack and I prefer these or these for working out and running.

Sarah James

has some great sock picks here too.

P.S. the very next ad I was served after writing this was from this brand, anyone try and like? The algorithm wants me to try.

More Pockets Please!

From the WSJ “Women’s Clothes Finally Have Pockets. What Took So Long”, tracking the addition of pockets that actually hold stuff to women’s garments along with more equality and power. Women's clothing lacked pockets due to longstanding societal assumptions that women, confined to domestic roles, didn't need functional storage in their garments, unlike men who participated in public and industrial life.

Huge fan of pockets. Of course I don’t want it to interfere with my lines (I’m watching Hacks now if you get the reference) but a pocket that is either designed cargo style, or can integrate seamlessly into the design of the garment is a huge win.

• Active material dress with pockets. It comes in great colors (and black!) and would be ideal for travel.

• I have this blazer and love the zipper pockets to keep items secure.

• This is the type of garment that I’m referencing when I say I love when pockets don’t interfere - these pockets are super functional (there are more pockets inside my Blaze Milano jacket too!!) and the pockets also add whimsical but sophisticated details to the jacket. I found mine via TRR.

• A Chore Jacket is a great option and there is even a bonus pocket on the inside of this one.

• All of these dresses have pockets!!

• A party pocket dress.

• For moments without a pocket, I use this phone strap.

Retailers, might I suggest online shopping filters add “pockets” to make it even easier to find the best options. Include in the details too on the PDP, don’t assume that the image with hands in pockets will be helpful. Support one’s quest for functional equality in fashion faster 😉

To help discover great, useful, functional fashion, I tried to point out throughout this send all the items with pockets. Enjoy.

Beauty & Substack

• This is an excellent case study for how a brand can operate on Substack and how to make it a value add.

  Bobbi Brown
  recent post “Deep Dive - Miracle Balm” is a full 360 degree look at the Jones Road Miracle Balm product. When the mini miracle balm sets were available (they are sold in mini size during limited time periods) I finally purchased to try. I’ve tried them some but I really wanted to play more. This deep dive was the perfect way for me to learn more - how to use it, where to put it and what each shade can do (highlight, bronze, color correct.) Sure, I could go to the website and look for a blog post but I spend a lot of time on Substack. So having the content where I am makes sense. It quickly found me.

• Business of Fashion featured how Substack newsletters, particularly those with active community chats are emerging as powerful platforms for beauty brands to connect with engaged audiences seeking product advice and recommendations. These communities serve as valuable focus groups, providing real-time feedback and insights into consumer preferences, which makes them attractive to brands for partnerships and sponsorships. As this opportunity is still in its early stages, brands that establish a presence on Substack now have the potential to see significant growth and build strong relationships with influential content creators and their followers. Previously brands had to build this themselves (think Into The Gloss) but now the Substackers are doing the work of building the community and generating content. Brands partnering with Substack can be both a place to promote/share their brand but also look for consumer insights and trends. BoF highlighted

  Jess Graves
  and
  THE LOVE LIST
  as example of how this is doing so well for both brands and the community to gather information. (I’m a huge fan of Jess and The Love List and loved seeing her work featured in BoF!)

A note to brands, retailers, and my valued readers:

As a seasoned retail consultant passionate about innovation, I am committed to bringing you the latest trends, retail news and shopping insights. I’m eager to collaborate with forward-thinking brands to elevate your presences in the evolving digital landscape.

Whether seeking counsel on Substack’s growing influence, input on a product launch, or insight into your brand’s competitive landscape, I’m here to help. I offer data-driven strategies and deep understanding of fashion, beauty and retail trends to deliver measurable results.

Let’s discuss how we can drive growth, discovery and engagement for your brand. Reach out to me at sarahshapiro@substack.com to start a conversation.

In other beauty news this week, both Amazon and Walmart have been sharing their focus on going after more high-end and luxury beauty brands. You can read more about Amazon here from Modern Retail and Walmart here from Glossy.

• For Amazon and Walmart this is a play because 1) beauty is a more stable (and growing) retail sector at the moment 2) margins are strong and higher - especially more margin dollars per order and AOV with the luxury brands 3) inventory can be more predictable to plan and forecast than other categories with a higher replenishment vs trend business.

• For the brands this is a way to increase revenue and sales distribution. While they are expanding cautiously, they are monitoring but the customer doesn’t seem to discriminate or see it as a negative of what might have been considered a more upscale department store purchase to now be at Amazon or Walmart. (I mean, recently The Row and Hermés was spotted on Walmart site so….)

Loungewear and PJs

Had a fun girls night with my mom - watching a movie (too ridiculous to recommend) and looking silly in a face mask. Wore some silky PJs* and wanted to round-up some of the ones I love. It took me awhile to invest in what I sleep in, but I realized my time spent lounging and sleeping (hopefully) is important too and it is when I want to be most comfortable wearing what I like.

• These* for when you want to be around others (like a girls night or dash to a hotel lobby) - I love how it looks like an outfit but so so so light and silky (with pockets - win!) I also own these and these from Lunya and have worn for years. I really appreciate a silky set that goes together and these are so easy to wash and line dry.

• My two favorite long nightgowns: this and this. I ordered both a year ago with plans to keep one. Threw those plans out the window when I tried them on and loved both. Have worn and washed repeatedly and they still look brand new.

• Perfect for hot summer nights: This is the lightest night gown I own and so airy. Short and super easy (plus it has pockets!!) I didn’t keep it bright white (I’ll try these tips) but now that they have in a stripe pattern I would prefer that. (Tip: size down.) I know many love Lake Pajamas but I haven’t tried the other sets yet.

• I have this PJ set in the shorts and the pants with long sleeve top but I just saw this material and it feels amazing too.

• Lounge sets I’m loving:

  • These pants* (I can’t even explain how soft these are), with this bralette* and the boyfriend t-shirt would be a great addition. I love how Negative has a whole Whipped assortment with all the pieces so you can choose the silhouette you like best. I will certainly be adding more as I love this material.

  • These pants* - and you can pair with a pointelle tee like this one. All week I’ve been lounging in these pants and organizing my closets in the evening. I can’t wait to have an edited closet and get rid of the pieces I’m not wearing. Such a great feeling.

🛍️ Quick note: I write a lot (too much good stuff to share!) so if you’re reading via email only, you may need to click through to the web version or read on the Substack app. I promise it will be worth it. 🛍️

Fashion Finds

• Margot Friedländer is the most beautiful Vogue covergirl (on the July/August issue of Vogue Germany) and her story is one I really hope others read. “Love” and her signature are also included on the cover. She is 102 and a holocaust survivor who has been sharing her story with a younger generation. You can read more about it here from Kveller.

• This is such a feel good fun fashion find internet moment.

• If you are looking for a LBD midi length and wear a Khaite size 4 you should check this out. This is the type of dress that you snap up even without an event so you have it when you need it.

• The comments in my Fashion 🌀 Spiral: White T-Shirt are filled with great tips. These t-shirts come recommended by both

  Hey Mrs. Solomon on Style
  and
  Stephanie Leigh Says
  (I absolutely trust both!!) Like an upgraded men’s Hanes T, high neck, boyfriend-y and an ethically minded brand. I’m intrigued!! Priced well at under $50. I’m adding to cart. And from the same brand, this is 10000% my kind of top to tuck into jeans.

• Abercrombie & Fitch collabs with Random Golf Club on a capsule collection ready to hit the links (or at least look like you are.) I think it is smart for Abercrombie & Fitch to play in the sports arena. A&F has an active line but this gives them even more credibility for functional active clothing.

• I am loving this organic sculptural necklace. Feels both from the ‘70s and modern.

• New Chloé arrived at Net: clogs and love this glossy bag.

• This Loewe Flamenco Bag in Raffia stripes is super fun for summer. If you are looking for a summer vacation bag snap her up.

PSA

• Jamie Haller sample sale (this makes me consider taking another road trip to LA! Yes, just for this.) 6/27 4-7pm and 6/28 11-4pm at her Echo Park Studio.

• Kosas is having a sitewide 20% off sale for a limited time. My favorite products from the brand are: this concealer (I own in 2 colors), brow gel (I like clear) and lip balm.

• Rhode is 40% off and there are some great summer pieces I’ve shared recently: this mini dress with sleeves, Lulani dress is a silhouette I love!!! (I own in black velvet), earlier this week we discussed trending white skirts or go against the grain and select any of the other colors or patterns it is available in (with pockets!!)

• Rixo new arrivals and sale! Some new arrivals on sale too, like this polka dot work ready dress that comes in regular and petite.

• Chan Luu Summer Sale through June 27th: There are so many good finds here.

  • I was the Accessories Buyer at Bloomingdale’s at the beginning of my career and brought in the cashmere and silk scarves from Chan Luu for the stores and personally bought a black/grey ombre one that I still wear. It is the perfect extra layer in fall/winter but for summer it is perfectly light to travel with. I’ve owned for over 10 years. It’s a keeper and a great investment on sale! The Row is making me think we will be wearing red plaids soon so get started with this version of the scarf.

  • Loving the tiny neckerchiefs as necklaces with a t-shirt or tank top and these are on sale for $18.

  • Turquoise jewelry is a great look for summer.

  • Test a caftan if you haven’t yet and the perfect cover-up to travel with.

  • Lovely natural baroque and biwa pearl drop charm necklace.

Substacks to Scroll

• If you love The Row and felt inspired by the 2025 Menswear looks, check out

  Dea
  “Recreating The Row's Spring 2025 looks” excellent interpretations for how to style now.

• Kelly Williams
  wrote a great piece on personal style. You can read it here “On Finding Personal Style.” And
  Julia Norberg
  also has great style tips and inspiration here too “An examination of Truly Great Street Style™”

• An excellent interview with Ashley Harris, Founder and Creative Director of Don’t Let Disco from

  Veronica Valentine
  “Bits and Baubles with Ashley Harris of Don't Let Disco”

• Founder of Cupcakes and Cashmere,

  Emily Schuman
  launched a Substack,
  Fwd: from a friend
  . You can check out the first post here.

• Becca Freeman
  wrote a fun post and round-up on “Art Teacher Necklaces” which made me laugh. I have been calling these summer camp necklaces but Art Teacher is a fabulous description. If you are looking for this style I would suggest:

  • I’ve been wearing (and loving!) this oversized baroque pearl necklace* from Chan Luu. The mini charms makes it fun but the big pearls mix it up to be almost classic.

  • Lavender opal from Brinker & Eliza.

  • After reading the interview linked above on Founder/Designer Ashley Harris, you’ll love this Don’t Let Disco stunner.

  • The most LUXE bead kit ever from Carolina Bucci. Usually a great assortment on The RealReal, but of course, for summer they are all sold out at the moment.

  • Why is it so easy to find the luxe accessories? Love this from Jenna Blake.

  • For super sharp price points - I love this, love this or just test the style by renting.

Enjoy your Sunday Scoop. xx

Sarah Shapiro

What’s Next

Another Brand Crush series coming up - and hint - multiple brands with a single founder in common. This crush is a decade plus (close to two decades!) Any guesses? Lots of summer sales happening. Clearing out room for new Fall deliveries. Glad I took the weekend to clean out my own closet, and hopefully prepare for some solid new fashion finds. You know I’m always looking and love to share.

Catch up on Sarah’s Retail Diary:

Away x La Ligne: Stripes & Travel Gear

Fashion 🌀 Spiral: White T-Shirt

Deep Dive - Week of June 17th 2024 - Alessandro Michele's Valentino, Hermés, Summer of Beauty launches & more

Last Sunday Scoop - Imagining Chanel via AI, Beauty News, Jewels, LA Shopping & more

Fashion 🌀 Re-Spiral: Seeing Stripes, American Sportswear is Having a Moment and Fashion 🌀 Spiral: Straw Bags

Retail 101: Math & Financials , Retail 101: Math & Financials Part Deux (Markdowns) and Retail 101: Buying Decisions Chapter 3

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Items marked with * have been kindly gifted by brands. Thoughts, selections, and reviews are my own.