Sunday Scoop - Lyst Fashion Ranking Insights, Flats, Knits & more

My not so secret flat obsession, an interview with Emme Parsons, knits I'm loving in every category and retail reads. Happy Sunday!!

Recapping the Lyst Q3 Index

The latest Lyst Index came out for Q3 and I love digging into the shoppers’ behavior based on their insights from searches, product views and sales. The Lyst formula incorporates social media mentions, worldwide engagement for Q3 2024.

• Miu Miu unseated Loewe for spot #1, but Loewe is still at the top with #2.

• Alaia increased 12 spots driven by their Fashion Show at the Guggenheim.

• The Row increased 7 spots, driven by the investment from Chanel and L’Oreal (read more about that here) and their new store in Paris.

• More movements worth noting: Ralph Lauren making the list from the Paris Olympics sponsorship with the US Team, Coach moving up 5 spots with excitement from the current assortment and strong marketing, Toteme making the top 20 with their store growth (NYC UES is the latest) and NYC Fashion Show and Balenciaga down 10 spots. Victoria Beckham also new to the list (smart to do the documentary and the strength of beauty and buzzy fashion show) and Chloé new to the list with the bump from having Chemena Kamali as Creative Director.

• Top 5 hot products don’t surprise me at all: Alaia mesh ballet flat, Coach Brooklyn, Puma Speedcat, Miu Miu Arcadie bag, Toteme Country Jacket. No surprise many of these are sold out or have limited inventory online. That is where Gab Waller comes in. She can help you source.

• The next 5 items didn’t wow me much but I was surprised to not see a Margaux bag from The Row. Next quarter I expect to see another statement coat (maybe a Moncler since the brand is in the top 20 already and Q4 is Moncler’s time to shine) and perhaps a “bathrobe” style wrap coat (see more thoughts on trending coat silhouettes here.) No real denim moments so that is interesting. For the ranking of the top 10 they take into account inventory so there are certainly behind the scene factors.

Fashion 🌀 Spiral: Flats

Let’s have a mini Fashion 🌀 Spiral on Flats. Why? First, this is my absolute favorite shoe silhouette, category, item etc. Second, I wrote about cigarette and slimmer pants in the Deep Dive citing

Elizabeth Cardinal Tamkin

and then

Lindsay

had the brilliant comment that slimmer pant legs were also coming back thanks to ballet flats and yes!! Third, I can’t let fall slip away into boots without flats getting a moment. Finally, I had the opportunity to connect with Emme Parsons on her flats category and loved seeing Emme Parsons in

Ali Pew

’s Fall

Uniform

Series (check it out here.)

Q&A with Emme Parsons on Flats

Retail Diary: How do you balance timeless design with current trends when creating new styles?

Emme Parsons: My hope and intention is that our shoes are investment pieces that will be workhorses in someone's wardrobe. Each season we have our core collection and then layer on newness and a little bit of novelty. This is the merchandising mix that works for us and the classic ratio that I learned from working in fashion in my 20s before I launched my brand.

Retail Diary: I'm obsessed with your new Pointy Toe Flat. What drove you towards this sharp point versus a round toe? What is your favorite way to style this for fall season?

Emme Parsons: Thank you! Personally, I don't have super-long, thin legs, so I'm always trying to find ways to make shoes that elongate the legs and are flattering. It's also important for us to build off existing styles instead of trying to reinvent the wheel every season to maintain consistency and a strong brand identity. (Retail Diary - read that line again for emphasis. It is such a brilliant way to look at brand identity!!) We launched the Veneto last year, which is a pointy-toe kitten heel that is in heavy rotation in my wardrobe, so we thought it would be a natural evolution to create a flat silhouette using the same toe shape. I'm looking forward to wearing them with fluid, wide-leg pants, but I've seen women wearing them with long, column dresses, which look incredibly chic.

Retail Diary: What is new this season? Any other styles we should check out?

Emme Parsons: We launched the Stretch Boot last fall, and it has become one of our bestselling styles, I believe, because it's surprisingly comfortable and subtly sexy. This is a particular point of pride for me, as we started as a sandal brand and have successfully expanded into the boot category. This season, we are excited to offer the Stretch Boot in Black Suede as an online exclusive. The suede is super-soft and adds texture to a monochrome or neutral look.

Retail Diary: Great segue - let’s chat boots soon in Retail Diary. Yes?

Do you wear flats? Do you have any favorites? Please share in the comments along with any boot questions so I can get to researching and editing.

Retail Diary Flats Edit

I have a thing for flats. Note, technically a ballet flat should have a rounded toe. This edit is being more inclusive and includes some great leg lengthening points, mary janes and a bit of an almond toe. Here are some favorites in addition to the Emme Parsons pointy toe above:

• One of my most worn pairs is from Freda Salvador. No matter the trends I love the slightly square toe and the woven leather. I have this black pair but the metallics are pretty hot to take a look up a notch (I’ve also seen

  Molly Sims
  wear as part of her Sports Mom look and I love ballet flats that can go from dressy to sidelines.) Use code RETAILDIARY15 to receive 15% off for first time customers on full priced styles.

• Margaux flats have the most comfortable footbed ever. Love these. The demi is a great place to start if you are looking for a good ballet flat and check out the pointe too. (FYI - Trunk Show this Friday 11/1 at Goop in Marin.) For $35 off your first order of $200 or more use code SARAH35.

• Sometimes nothing compares to the classic Chanel ballet flats. I love seeing the new iterations each season but I’m also always searching on The RealReal for certain styles and colors I love. As soon as I get them I take to the cobbler for a good clean up and fresh sole.

• Almond toes. Love right now. Like these Loro Piana tortoiseshell.

• Put a pair of studs on ballet flats and guarantee you I’m going to want them. Yes, I have a type. Crystal too. For the Loeffler Randall pair you can use code Sarah10 for 10% off on the Loeffler Randall website.

• You can also shop the Retail Diary Flat Edit here.

Flats of all silhouettes and styles. Retail Diary forever favorite.

Knit Wits

• I was wow’ed by a few knits this week. All for different use cases but I highly recommend if any of these categories are a need for you that you check these out:

  • Pointelle Knits - La Ligne. Wow. These felt like silk. Thicker and more elevated. These are not fast fashion pointelle. I also felt like this would be a great set to layer the tank over the long sleeve. I’d wear with jeans or under my sweaters too all winter long. 10% off your first order with code SarahS10 at La Ligne.

  • Turtlenecks - we are heading into prime turtleneck season. A great layering piece under sweaters or blazers. When it gets really freezing you need as a solid base (outside in the cold) I tried on the Soldout NYC Cashmere Turtleneck* and it is not thin in a see-thru way but light enough to layer with. For cold days I would wear with a thick sweater over and when it is mild I’ll wear on its own with a sharp pair of trousers or jeans and a belt. Use code RETAILDIARY15 for 15% off your first full priced order at Soldout NYC.

  • Short Sleeve T-shirt Knit - Since fall has been so warm/mild I find myself wanting to wear a short sleeve sweater more. It feels like the blend I need - the “sweater-ness” fits a fall look but the short sleeves helps me stay comfortable and cool. I can also layer jackets and blazers over. I bought this one from Attersee (at the Hero Shop pop-up. LA, the brand is coming your way this week) and I’m looking forward to wearing alone or under this pointelle cardigan I wear from the brand.

  • Short Sleeve Cardigan - This ribbed short sleeve cardigan from Frame is another great shorter sleeve option. Countless ways to wear.

  • Knit that looks like a jacket - I have this cardigan from ba&sh in a few colors. It is such a versatile piece because you can pair with denim or something dressier. Wear open with a tank, buttoned-up to look like a top and it looks like a lady-like jacket. There are small shoulder pads that help give this knit some shape and structure.

  • Thick knit long sleeve t-shirt - Sablyn sent me this thick ribbed long sleeve* and I was pleasantly surprised. This feels casual but not like it will fall apart. It is thick and opaque and a nice rib knit. I’d wear alone or layered under button-ups, sweaters and blazers/jackets for later this winter. The rib also stays flat vs bunching up in weird ways.

🛍️ Quick note: I write a lot (too much good stuff to share!) so if you’re reading via email only, you may need to click through to the web version or read on the Substack app. I promise it will be worth it. 🛍️

Field Notes

Fashion Finds

• Freda Salvador’s holiday collection is out. Lots of silver and gold and I’m loving the Jayla mid heel in woven silver.

• Still obsessed with leather jackets. Co has great ones - cropped bordeaux and a longer field jacket.

• Toteme coats are epic. This is no exception.

• MyTheresa launched exclusive Dries Van Noten pieces. DVN always bridges the gap between collectors items and wearable. What I love is that being exclusive for MyTheresa they are extra unique. Check out all the pieces here. A few of my personal favorites:

  • sequined midi skirt to make a statement

  • this sequined jacket feels both beautifully vintage and fresh.

  • a gown that belongs on a red carpet.

  • No red carpet? Add this top to trousers for a holiday party

  • a special cotton ruched midi skirt you can make part of your weekly uniform

• Rosie Huntington-Whiteley for Wardrobe.nyc. The shoulders and slim sleeves on this jacket make it look so sharp, and anyone need a web bodysuit? Beyoncé wore this Wardrobe.nyc double breasted blazer mini dress to introduce Kamala Harris in Houston. More available here and here. Breakdown on the look here from .@ideservecouture.

• If you are in a wicked mood and want to play Dorothy for Halloween, let me suggest these mid heels and then party all holiday season in them.

• New Balance did an exclusive collection for Goop. The muted palette feels elevated and the activewear pieces are anything but boring or basic.

• Reminder, MIRTH ‘On Holiday’ sale  ends October 29th. For this event the brand is 30% off a wide range of styles (past season styles) and permanent markdowns are discounted too (so sale on sale!) (FYI discount is automatically applied at check out.) Instead of doing a long BF/CM event, Mirth promotes earlier, so Now!

• FYI - I mentioned in last week’s Sunday’s Scoop that Left on Friday had a great campaign with 100% of proceeds going to The BC Cancer Foundation. LoF reached out and offered Retail Diary readers a 10% discount on their first purchase. Use code SARAH10 for 10% off until Tuesday October 29th. If you are looking for products to try this is my favorite bathing suit and I also love their activewear like these leggings and this sports bra (or crop top depending on what you are comfortable with.)

Beauty Finds

• Hotel Lobby Candle is launching mini votives in a set 10/27. So smart to 1) offer mini sizes to try different scents - more likely that you will find a favorite BUT 2) create them as a combined set so you reach a higher retail. If HLC wants to explore in store opportunities they could offer singles only available at a retail shop or sets of 3 of the same scent. Want to know the coolest part of this launch? They shared 4 of the scents (favorites from the collection) but the 5th scent is a Mystery and a sneak peek (sneak sniff) at their next drop. You can guess it now or sniff early if you order. Love the playfulness of it.

• I’ve been using UBeauty's new Resurfacing Flash Peel* for two weeks now and I'm convinced it's the closest thing to bottling a professional facial for home use - just 5-10 minutes to noticeably brighter, smoother skin. Pro tip: I use it the night before I want to wake up glowy and fresh, getting my skin ready for the day ahead. Use code SHAPIRO20 for 20% off at UBeauty.

• Credo Friends & Family is going on now through 10/29 which means 20% off everything. I put together an edit of my favorite items at the retailer here. tl;dr stock up on Westman Atelier but I added a few other fun items too. Use code FRIENDS24 at checkout.

Retail Reads:

Retail

• A federal judge blocked Tapestry (Coach, Kate Spade) from buying Capri (Michael Kors, Versace, Jimmy Choo) in an $8.5B deal, siding with FTC's argument that it would hurt competition in affordable luxury handbags and raise prices. Both companies plan to appeal, but such blocks typically kill deals. Capri's stock tumbled while Tapestry's rose on the news. Read more here from the WSJ (gift link to read behind paywall.)

• Hermès reported strong Q3 sales (+11.3% to €3.7B), trending stronger than LVMH (down 15% YTD) and Kering (down 40% YDT) despite China's slowdown impacting competition. This speaks to the strength of the Hermés brand and shows continued demand for the key products (Birkin, Kelly) and the other products that many customers purchase to (allegedly) give them more favorable status to purchase the key items. Additionally, I think the head fashion designer strategy at Hermés (currently Nadège Vanhée for Women’s RTW) is different than at LVMH and Kering brands. Some of the volatility we are seeing at other houses is related to changing Creative Directors and leadership and strategy adjustments. Read more here from Business of Fashion.

• Kering issued its third profit warning of 2023 as Q3 sales fell 16% to €3.78B, with Gucci hit hardest (down 25%). The luxury group expects profits to drop over 45% this year and is considering store closures, especially in China. All major brands (Gucci, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, McQueen) saw double-digit declines amid broader luxury market slowdown. More from BoF here.

• Zara resale and repair launched in the US after launching in the UK and Europe. I’m intrigued by the ability and offer to repair any previous Zara items. I hope this helps shoppers think more sustainably about their items and allows for loyalty by knowing these items can have a longer life.

• Last Sunday we talked intimate apparel (lots of bra thoughts.) I had the opportunity to connect with Madeline Schultz from Vogue Business regarding the state of the bra and where there is opportunity in the intimate apparel industry to show up for bra wearers even more. “What Selling a Bra Looks Like in 2024.”

  “What I’d love to see next is for one of these to grow even more to be a household name and bring in more brands. We could all really benefit from a one-stop shop for some support and discovery on the best bra fits.”

  There’s also room for brands to more explicitly cater to different life stages, and dedicate marketing, content and community-building to these, she adds — first bra, body changes during puberty, pregnancy, nursing and postpartum, breast cancer and masectomies, as well as body changes during perimenopause and menopause, among them. “[There’s] so much opportunity to show up and be there for the customer.”

• Amanda Mull wrote for Bloomberg about print magazines being back. “Print Magazines Have a Revival in 2024 With High-End Readers” and states that “that people never stopped enjoying magazines” Agreed. I like how Interview Magazine EIC Mel Ottenberg describes them as a luxury product because to me, as much as I love online articles, sitting down with a magazine still feels like a luxurious way to spend my time. Bundle this with the recent New York Magazine article “Media Elites Tell All” and we are clearly talking a lot about what is going on in the media industry.

Fashion

• Nancy MacDonell wrote “The Little-Known History of Boho Fashion—from Ophelia to Stevie Nicks to the Latest Runways” (gift link to read behind paywall) for the WSJ. A quick and thorough Fashion Spiral on this look. The strength of Chemena Kamali for Chloé the past two seasons has brought the boho style back into the spotlight.

• Rachel Tashjian wrote a great profile on Sacai designer Chitose Abe for the Washington Post “The Most Powerful Fashion Designer you Don’t Know About” (gift link to read behind paywall.) For the past 25 years, Chitose Abe has served as both the Creative Director and CEO of the brand she founded. Sacai appeals to both streetwear enthusiasts (through Nike collaborations) and luxury fashion collectors and I love that

  Susan Orlean
  was featured as a fan, especially for fitting into her life as being comfortable to work and write in. She states:

  “Sacai really made that happen for me, where I still felt delighted. I guess that’s what I want: to be delighted by the clothing. And also I want to feel like I look good. I won’t give that up in the interest of art.”

Odds & Ends

• As part of my Gift Guide edits I’ll be saving all in ShopMy and this way I can keep adding as there are more great options and will also link in future posts. My Beauty Gifts Holiday 2024 edit has started and you can find it here. I’ll be digging in to more about the strategy and insights around beauty gifts soon.

• As you are shopping this season make sure you check out the Retail Diary Community Discount Codes to find special discounts for fashion (Donni, Frame, Freda Salvador, La Ligne and Margaux to name a few), Jewelry like Ariel Gordon Jewelry and a new discount to At Present. I also just added men’s too - Todd Snyder. Beauty finds like Roz Hair, Ziip and YSE Beauty.

• Vote! Vote! Vote! No excuses. Go get it done.

Enjoy your Sunday Scoop. xx

Sarah Shapiro

What’s Next

Spooky week - on November 1st you can get discounted Halloween Candy. I’m also expecting plenty of “Mariah Carey is defrosting” jokes as Holiday content is totally acceptable.

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