Deep Dive - Week of October 28th 2024 - the Retail Diary Loungewear Edit, Little Luxuries to Gift and Bloomingdale's gets Wicked

Plus Jacquemus wants an investor and Marc Jacobs wants Chanel. What's at the top of your wish list?

Halloween week and the week before the election (go vote) means less collabs and launches. I dive into Jacquemus’ quest for new investments in our Business Section.

This Week's Topics:  

• New Collabs

• New Launches

• Field Notes

• New Store Openings & Pop-ups

• The Business Section

  • Jacquemus Searching for an Investor

  • Fashion & Beauty News

  • People in the News

• What else I ❤️️ 

New Collabs

Fashion

• Love when retail predictions come true! While reading “When Women Ran Fifth Avenue” by

  Julie Satow
  , I discovered L. Frank Baum (The Wizard of Oz author) had a surprising connection to retail - he pioneered visual merchandising at Marshall Fields. Given this historical link and the upcoming Wicked movie, I predicted Bloomingdale's (owned by Macy's, which acquired Marshall Fields) would be the perfect partner for a movie tie-in. Sure enough, they just announced a Wicked collaboration with their Aqua line and Holiday pop-up. (PS: If you love retail, NYC, or history, Satow's book is a must-read.)

• As if! Stoney Clover Lane created a Clueless collection that is launching at 10am ET on 10/31.

• That’s it! Halloween week and it is eerily quiet.

New Launches

Fashion Launches

• MyTheresa is continuing to hit it out of the park with exclusive products, notably with exciting and key designers. This week MyTheresa released an exclusive assortment of Khaite products.

  • I’m loving these statements jackets/blazers: leather with lots of buttons, full length with even more buttons, easy wool and silk faille with zero visible buttons.

  • Shoes worth noting are simple but not boring loafers (and in satin) and a pump with a higher vamp to make it interesting.

  • Organic swirl drop earrings to take you through the holiday season.

• Alex Mill’s new Winter delivery has arrived. I think the winner is this reversible polar jacket (which is an update from a customer favorite from last year.)

• Newest Donni collection, including a Satin Car Coat, launches at 10am PT today (10/31)

• Away launched Diaper Bags and they have the perfect spot for everything without looking like a diaper bag. Backpack version and a tote.

Beauty Launches

• Jones Road launched 5 great items in their holiday shop. 4 sets/kits and a rollerball fragrance. I added to the Beauty Holiday Edit here.

Field Notes

Loungewear Edit

Personally there are a few reasons why I love this category of clothing:

• It’s cozy.

• The assortment quality and styling has greatly improved over the years.

• Incredibly versatile - you can dress down at home or take a single piece and layer in with your more professional or dressed up clothing.

• Easy to clean and care for at home. The pieces wash and wear well.

• Have I mentioned it is cozy? As I write this I’m wearing this perfect white tees hoodie* (it is great because it feels like it is fit for a woman’s body without being too slim) and love that I can wear with workout leggings, jeans or even with a skirt like this.

Now for the industry insights and data to love this category:

• The pandemic drove more than double in the size of this category. From approximately $4.3 billion in 2019 to an estimated $9.7 billion in 2020, representing 125% growth. (McKinsey State of Fashion 2021)

• Growth has slowed, but it has continued to increase every year. Estimated at $12.8 billion in 2023.

• Hybrid work schedules (and significant time WFH) allowed more people to invest in loungewear for their own closet.

• Advances in fabric technology and sophisticated loungewear designs now allow you to seamlessly blend comfort pieces with your everyday wardrobe for an elevated, contemporary look.

And the Retail Diary Edit:

• Leset t-shirts (my full White Tshirt Fashion Spiral here) and the brand has lots of “sets” that work well for more pulled together loungewear. I want to try their new Rio Cigarette Pants.

• For loungewear that is perfect to wear outside I prefer Varley (love this - it would be great for lounging, travel and endless errands) and Vuori (love these jogger leggings and own 2 pairs, both in black of course.)

• I wear a lot of Donni and many of their pieces I consider loungewear like the pointelle and the kick flare. The terry sweatshirt with the pants gives it the lounge moment.

• Negative Underwear Whipped line is so light and not constricting at all.

• The Lunya Slumberknit Set* is a no brainer and can be worn for lounge or sleep. This set feels substantial to me and the material is thick and well made. (I love Eberjey but wish the material held up better - the Lunya holds up much better for me.)

• While my Gen Alpha daughter opts for the Scuba Hoodie from Lululemon I love the feel of this one. And the brushed black is a little muted and the material almost feels like silk.

• Perfect White Tee has a category in their navigation titled “school drop off outfits” they clearly know their demographic and how important this category is. (and yes, this sweatshirt has been in my school drop off rotation.) SEO bonus.

• Another brand I like, Monrow, purposefully added the category name “elevated loungewear” so it pops up when you search in Google, smart SEO.

• Request for elevated sweat sets and I would look at RicherPoorer for a range of basic colors and a few pops. They also have silhouettes that are easy to wear. The brand is currently having a “buy more save more” sale which is an ideal way to bundle together multiple pieces to try and create a set.

• Elevated sweats and customers love Suzi Kondi. The Velour sets are a fresh version of the Juicy Couture Sets (sorry, flashbacks and I had to say it) and the French Terry are really nice without any reminders of the early 2000s.

• Looking for luxe and want cashmere? Lisa Yang pants and a matching sweater is the way to go.

For more t-shirt stories, I enjoyed Misty White Sidell’s NYTimes article “T-Shirts for the Female Gaze” (gift link to read behind paywall) about brands like Flore Flore (which have a growing following and I spotted at Hero Shop and McMullen) Cou Cou Intimates (I wrote about this brand recently in the Intimate Apparel edit) and the brand Gil Rodriguez (from a former American Apparel employee with lots of pointelle styles.)

Retail Diary’s Loungewear Edit - Let’s Get Cozy

Gift Guide: Little Luxuries

What we call luxuries can be different person to person, category by category and vary wildly by price point. I use the term “luxury” in varying ways. For this Gift Guide I’m looking at luxuries at items where there are great options at lower price points but to give a special gift you can upgrade someone (or yourself.)

• Lip Balm luxury: The UBeauty Lip Plasma is luxe for the feel of the case, the applicator and the non-goopy formula. My lips feel pampered and this would be an excellent gift for someone if they wouldn’t treat themselves. I immediately felt the improved texture and during the winter the boost of hydration is key. UBeauty also has the Plasma Set for Holiday which includes one regular size and two minis for only $10 more. Use code SHAPIRO20 for 20% off. (Other options I love are this from Eadem (same great style applicator), and Biossance (it has peptides too) is my latest car lip balm and to upgrade a Gen Alpha I would gift them this Glossier balm dotcom duo kit.)

• For someone who loves lip color and might enjoy a fancy compact to stash in their clutch, the Fara Homidi Essential Holiday Lip Set* comes beautifully packaged with a compact lip color, lip pencil and sharpener. For a similar type of color application I love the RMS Lip2Cheek pots (I have Beloved and Demure) and they are so versatile - wear as lip color or dot on the cheeks as blush. Use code SarahS20 for 20% off at RMSbeauty.com.

• Another luxury upgrade are the Undo Hairware Claw Clips. Sure, you can find plenty of inexpensive ones at Target, but the Undo Hairware ones are so nice - gorgeous colors, hold up well, a true accessory and they come wrapped and packaged so elegantly. If you don’t want to worry about wrapping or boxing a present just mail this directly to your sister, aunt, mother, cousin or yourself. And isn’t that a luxury, not having to wrap or head to the post office to mail a gift?

• Fancy hand soap - yes, EO hand soap works great, but why not upgrade someone with a gorgeous reusable glass bottle and have sent in a matching set with a candle and home diffuser. I love the New York Scent from Hotel Lobby Home.

• Hermés has such elegant beauty items and you can combine the Nail Polish (in the Hermés Orange Tonique for the full statement in a limited edition color or a more subtle rose) and a set of nail files.

• Face Masks that are ultra luxe. I love how 111Skin created a jetsetter trio in a zippered wallet that you can stash in your carry-on bag.

• I love the Kate McLeod bath products - and the Daily Pebbles can be used in the bath or the shower. I use these bath salts** too, but when I’m ready for a more luxurious experience the Kate McLeod Pebbles are my go-to.

Looking for more gift ideas? Holiday Beauty Retail Diary Gift Edit is here. If jewelry is more your speed and you want to catch up on my recommended gold charms (including how to start collecting and a whole assortment) check out this previous post I wrote helping a friend start a collection.

Little Luxuries to gift or collect.

🛍️ Quick note: I write a lot (too much good stuff to share!) so if you’re reading via email only, you may need to click through to the web version or read on the Substack app. I promise it will be worth it. 🛍️

Retail Diary PSA

• It is Sephora’s big sale event starting on 11/1.

  • 11/1 starts 30% off Sephora Collection for everyone

  • 11/1 Rouge gets first access with 20% off

  • 11/5 kicks off VIB with 15% off

  • 11/5 is also for Insiders with 10% off

  • The event ends 11/11 for everyone.

    • Great time to stock up on gifts (maybe this for my daughter or for her to share with friends)

    • refills (I need my favorite eye serum)

    • bigger ticket items are also a smart move

    • I always like to throw in one new fun item to try. If you haven’t tried these lipsticks yet I would highly recommend.

• Important reminder that if you are putting jewelry items on your wish list, or shopping for others, potentially longer lead times and cut-off dates. I have a few updates from Dorsey to keep your eye on:

  • 11/1 Made to Order Rings. I love jewelry with sentimental value and I have this ring with my kids birthstones.

  • 11/1 Made to Order Riviéres (Sterling Silver & 18K Coated Silver)

• J.Crew Friends & Family event is going on now. Have you felt the new brushed cashmere sweater? Brushed cashmere is the updated fabrication this season after the popularity of the Toteme version last fall/winter. It has that cozy texture and feel. (La Ligne launched one this week too.)

• Now through 11/3 you can take 20% off Freda Salvador Loafers. My suggestions are to make sure you have something traditional or go with something soft and easy. Add a pair of fancy socks to your cart too.

• Grab your treats while you can save. Last day is October 31st! Ring Concierge reached out with a promo code special for Retail Diary subscribers. 20% off Fine Jewelry excluding classic and bezel-set diamond studs. Use code RetailDiary20 through October 31st. My picks are these hoops (own and love).

New Finds I’m obsessed with

• I was very excited when I saw the new Le Monde Beryl flats this week out of corduroy. The shoe brand has had other novel materials for their shoes like denim, shearling, bouclé (this pair exclusive at MyTheresa) and raffia. I spotted these on

  Grace Atwood
  and I was 100% convinced that I would love too. They arrived today and it is true. I love!

• The cropped length of my TWP Next Ex Shirt is perfect for me and now I’m checking out their Little Big Joe Shirt and The Day After Shirt. For something fancy, preorder the Next Ex Shirt with the crystal collar.

New Store Openings & Pop-Ups

• Yeehaw Dallas! Two new stores opened this week. Glossier (beautiful shop) and Hill House Home.

• TWP opened their LA store on Melrose recently and

  Laurel Pantin
  hosted an event at the store this week.

• Margaux will be at Goop in Marin Country Mart on Friday 11/1. I’ll be stopping by this trunk show.

• Me+Em is opening their first Flagship location in Marylebone Village in London.

The Business Section

Jacquemus Searching for an Investor

Jacquemus is at an inflection point with his brand and this captures the challenges of scaling as an independent brand that seems to have endless successes on the outside. The combination of growth ambitions and hanging on to independence and navigating the mixed messages in the luxury market we are currently experiencing.

• Currently seeking minority investor to fund expansion, despite being fiercely independent until now.