Deep Dive - Week of September 2nd 2024 - Nostalgic for Prep, New Deliveries and Fall Fashion
Thoughts on true fall prep hitting the stores, how retailers are having a nostalgic moment, behind the scenes on collabs and all the latest retail industry news.
NYFW “officially” kicks off Friday September 6th, but it is clear the shows, fashion parties and events like to start early.
The news lately has felt so heavy. If anyone needs space away from retail, fashion & beauty I get it.
This Week's Topics:
Prep Makes its Nostalgic Return
New Launches
Fashion & Beauty Finds
New Collabs
Paperless Post x Justina Blakeney Jungalow Collab
New Store Openings & Pop-Ups
The Business Section
What else I ❤️️
Prep Makes its Nostalgic Return
With the new styles launching from J. Crew, Alex Mill, Madewell etc I think Gen X and Millennials are working extremely hard to take the description “prep” back from Gen Z-Alphas version of “preppy.” (For an explanation of that, see the breakdown here from my Gen Alpha daughter and me.)
J.Crew - Catalog and amazing new delivery
The J.Crew catalog made its splashy return this week. Lots of content around this.
Chavie Lieber wrote for the WSJ “J.Crew Fans, Get Ready: The Catalog Is Back” (gift link to read behind the paywall.)
I shared on Instagram Reels my quick 60 second take on the business opportunity.
Will drive traffic to the stores for anyone who is near a location and wants to grab this mag-alog (more of a magazine than a true catalog)
If you want a copy, you have to sign up for J.Crew’s Passport program. This is a drive for J.Crew to capture your email address and have you in their database as a Known Consumer. The opportunity here is they have a direct line to you - they can see your purchases and see what items you are eyeing. I appreciate when brands want my information AS LONG AS THEY USE IT TO IMPROVE MY EXPERIENCE!!!
A few more links to read or watch:
wrote in a sponsored post for J.Crew “Making Out and Eating Pizza with J. Crew” and Reel (also sponsored) digs into history and behind the scenes of the catalog. And check out take here too.J.Crew is leaning into nostalgia with more of their latest new arrivals. Here are a few favorites:
Barn Jackets:
Long Plaid Barn Jacket from size xxx-small to 3x and comes in petite length also.
Personally I can’t decide which I love more - the long black barn jacket (with gorgeous buttons down the vents in the back)
OR this cropped version. (Let me be honest here, I love the cropped version because I still can’t get this one off my mind.)
The green & navy striped sweater jacket or a ladylike look with the contrast trim longer sweater jacket.
The popular bucket bag is so simple but a really great get. The newest addition to the Berkeley collection is the suede tote to fit a laptop for work. I love the boxy but slouchy shape and you can add a monogram.
I’ve received a ton of requests for leopard, and the print is trending again (it is a neutral, so maybe not “trend”) but this skirt is fantastic. It also goes up to size 3x.
A gorgeous Italian herringbone double breasted blazer that can be worn oversized.
As I mentioned, Pointelle is trending. Get it in red here.
Very into the Demi Moore edit with her personal J.Crew collection and a ‘90s edit.
Alex Mill looks incredible
All the items I want to try.
y’all nailed it!At some point every day I’m wearing a sweatshirt and I really love this “vintage” one. (washed black for me of course)
Obsessed with the cuffs on this trench coat and the color.
The description on this ribbed cardigan sums it up perfectly - wear as a top. Especially with loose denim (I like this in the seattle black wash.)
I love these corduroy pants and would order to wear loose and oversized. Chocolate and dusty rose (paired with chocolate or light blue) would be perfect for Fall 2024.
I picture this mini skirt paired with loafers and socks.
The tiniest treat to bring joy - colorful lurex socks to wear with mary janes and loafers. (Have you seen these Margaux loafers? They would look great with a pair of socks.)
Alexa Chung x Madewell collab
Alexa Chung x Madewell making all of the “geriatric ‘it’ girls” (gift link to read her NYTimes profile behind the paywall - great article by Jessica Testa) dreams come true. It hits the high notes with a deep chocolate brown suede and mini skirts that Chung is well known for wear. Personally I ordered this oversized denim shirt immediately as I can never own enough of this style. I plan to style over workout gear for when I’m running errands or sitting on the soccer field sidelines, pairing with denim for a denim on denim moment, or adding over slip dresses and skirts. You know, like the “geriatric ‘it’ girl” I aim to be.
New Launches
Fashion Launches
Freda Salvador launched Fall Drop 2 and I’m very into these flats (I have in black but I love the gunmetal color) and bringing the identifiable woven leather into the black booties was a great brand moment and they make a statement. (Use code RETAILDIARY15 to receive 15% off for first time customers on full priced styles.)
I’m eager to learn more about Literary Sport. (Honestly, at first I thought it was a new book club.) But it appears to feel like The Row, High Sport and Tracksmith got together for a jog and brunch. Excited to learn more.
Same with Spence, a new tennis clothing line. This looks like cool tennis gear I want to wear. And while the tweens and teens all carry around Lululemon shopping bags, Spence seems to be taking a page from that marketing playbook with cool shopping bags we want to keep using (gah- remember those Scoop shopping bags?)
Not surprising, Phoebe Philo announced that the products will now be available at select wholesale partners going forward. From their previous relationship with Bergdorf Goodman (NYC), they will also add 10 Corso Como (Milan), Dover Street Market (London and Paris), Maxfield (LA), Neiman Marcus (LA) and The Webster (Miami.) This will start with the September 10th release of the third edit and the release dates could vary from phoebephilo.com.
Saks launched a high jewelry collection (only in the NYC location for now and expanding to Beverly Hills and Naples soon) with 200 pieces targeted to the ultimate luxury customer. For example, there is a 100 carat pear diamond necklace. Add to your wish list now.
Beauty Launches
Diptyque Paris unveils a new premium fragrance collection inspired to bring to life elements that are devoid of scent from nature, featuring collaborations with four renowned perfumers and artist Nigel Peak, who etched designs on the bottles. Like all Diptyque collections, this one has deep connections to art by collaborating with contemporary artists on the designs. The bottles are incredibly gorgeous and would be perfect for a beauty shelfie.
Victoria Beckham Beauty launched a new concealer pen in partnership with Augustinus Bader. Formulated with TFC8® by Augustinus Bader, The Concealer Pen formula reduces the appearance of fine lines and dark circles, decreases eye puffiness, and improves the appearance of hyperpigmentation. (In a clinical study of 31 female subjects, aged 30-65 years using ImagePro® Software) More on VB and the overall business in the Business Section below.
Saie is launching two new lip products on September 5th. First is a Lip Liner, Lip Liner 101 and 3 new Glossybounce Lip Gloss Oil shimmers.
Cult Gaia is launching 3 fragrances at $228 for a 50 ml bottle with a 4th fragrance in the works. To help drive engagement and DTC traffic, the fragrance will only be offered in their own stores and DTC e-commerce site. I’m curious is this is the fastest/best way for the fragrance to launch or if it will eventually end up in Sephora or other retail partner locations. Whether it was a strategy choice to be exclusive or the only option. Currently Cult Gaia has two candles on their site so the navigation will need to update to have an easy landing spot for fragrance.
I think Nordstrom has the right idea here, I just don’t love the name “Young Adult Beauty.” The retailer launched an edit online (in the navigation) using the term Young Adult Beauty. Pros: build SEO, make it easy to find, helpful for parents or those purchasing a gift and Nordstrom can become more of an expert in the category and a destination. Con: the name isn’t ideal. I don’t see tweens and teens identifying in this way. Are they going to double expose the items so an older shopper doesn’t feel awkward/creepy or believe that the items aren’t for them?
Fashion & Beauty Finds
Fashion Finds
Thank you to
from who sent me on a fun little spiral after reading her recent post. “The Whimsical Elegance of the Scarf Coat.” I too am obsessed with this scarf coat (it runs big, so size down) still after a few seasons.In January 2024 and March 2024 I wrote about the Quince scarf coat and FYI - it is back. (Love that Rory Satran from WSJ called this style a “scoat”.)
WWD wrote about the brand Toteme and the strength of their accessories. Accessories represent 20% of the business, which is pretty healthy and possibly even a bit smaller than other luxury/accessible luxury brands that are often driven by handbags and accessories. While 20% does give the brand room to grow here, I think it also speaks to how strong the RTW is. No surprise but handbags is one of their fastest-growing categories and in the last 21 months Toteme has sold 30K of the T-lock bags. I’ll admit, I’m completely biased. I love this brand and it is not like me to buy multiple handbags from the same brand in a row, but here we are:
After sharing strong hints, my husband and kids gifted me this one for my birthday and I can’t even tell you how much I love it. It is so versatile. (If you are looking for a T-lock, you can often find one in good condition at a slight discount on resale.)
Then I bought this belt bag via ebay as I fell in love with the slouchy tote in suede and specifically wanted the navy color. I love this shape.
This belt bag is their latest must-have item.
Beauty Finds
It isn’t often that I’m impressed with a whole line of products and use everything from one line. Roz Hair has me super impressed:
Most of the products I like come in this Hydration Heroes kit. It is a great way to bundle together and save.
My routine has been the Shampoo & Conditioner* and once a week using the Foundation Mask* instead of the Conditioner.
For styling I often use the Milk Serum, which was my entry point to the brand (I’m always curious as to what brands consider their “gateway” product. Which product is the one most customers start with.) I air dry after this.
On days I need something extra I’ll also use the Styling Oil* (my hair tends to be dry and frizzy) and I put the pre-treatment scalp oil* the night before I wash my hair for some extra nourishment.
For readers of Retail Diary, use code SarahS15 for 15% off.
New Collabs
Coming in October, Stefano Pilati (previously at YSL and Zegna) is designing a collection for Zara, and the campaign will be photographed by Steven Meisel. There are expected to be 50 styles for men and 30 styles for women. Additional the collection will have shoes and handbags. Check out .@stylenotcom mini interview with Pilati here.
Sacai collection remembering Bill Cunningham. The true gem is the Blue Chore Coat and this image of Linda Fargo honoring Bill Cunningham wearing it (I would often walk this way to work just to watch Cunningham working on this corner.)
Isabel Marant x Converse on some very fun, fuzzy and high wedge sneakers. I love the cool laces and the Isabel Marant logo on the side. There is also this great low profile Chuck 70 and the Chuck 70 high top without the wedge.
Even though all signs point to Brat Summer being officially over, we aren’t letting go of Charli XCX. H&M has a collab coming with Charli XCX next week.
Isamaya Ffrench x Lashify collabed one two new products in the luxury lash space. The products will be sold at Isamaya Beauty, Lashify and Selfridges.
I suddenly have the urge to redecorate my kids’ rooms. West Elm x Eva Chen on a collab focused on helping to raise readers. Even if I don’t invest in some of the furniture items, maybe the sheet set for sure.
The McGee & Co x Loeffler Randall collab is officially live! It looks so great. Here are my personal favorite pieces and how I would use:
I love the shade of these candles and the twist design. These are great to stock up on for a $30 item to keep in your hostess gift stash.
I love using cloth napkins and try not to be too precious with them. You can never have too much.
This dark green scallop pillow would be an excellent way to add a fall color to your home decor. This is one of the key shades this season (but I also love that it is such a classic.)
The Tabitha ceramic collection is really beautiful and I always find myself needing great serving bowls like this one.
If you are curious about collabs and how they are created, I really enjoyed this sponsored interview from the Breaking Beauty podcasts hosts with NYX beauty president Denée Pearson.
Paperless Post x Justina Blakeney Jungalow Collab
If you inbox is anything like mine, you are receiving much more digital invitations vs paper invites in the mail. Paperless Post has done countless fashion forward collabs (think Oscar de la Renta, Monique Lhuillier and Rifle Paper Co.)
I would use this one for a Thanksgiving event
This I would send to my girl friends for an afternoon lunch to catch up
For an evening event I think this one sets the scene for an elegant evening
Since I love collabs, I took the opportunity to ask a few questions about the world of digital invitations and the fashion, interiors and art world (maybe a fun beauty brand collab could work well here too!)
Justina Blakeney, Founder and Chief Creative Officer of Jungalow
Justina's/Jungalow designs are known for their vibrant, eclectic style. How did you adapt your signature aesthetic to the digital format of Paperless Post invitations while maintaining the handcrafted feel of your work?
“Much like translating my art to wallpaper and textiles, the Paperless Post invitations were inspired by and taken from my original paintings and drawings. It's easy to maintain the handcrafted feel because most of my artwork is made by my hands (I work in watercolor, gouache and acrylic) and then my works are photographed or scanned to translate them onto different surfaces, from bedding and rugs to Paperless Post invitations. Also, Paperless Post does a great job of giving party-goers the bells and whistles of real paper invitations by rendering gold leaf, letterpress and even envelope liners, so you really get the same effect as an envelope arriving in your mailbox.” Justina Blakeney
As a multihyphenate creator, how do you see collaborations like this one with Paperless Post shaping the future of design and digital communication? How does this factor in to the Jungalow brand?
“Jungalow is all about creating fun, lush, vibrant designs and environments that are inspired by Mother Nature. And, as a brand, we also work toward sustainability goals and giving back to Mother Nature. Digital invitations felt like a natural, sustainable, way to bring people together and reach new audiences--and, as a digital-first brand, we're not strangers to figuring out fun and inventive ways to share our style and ideas in the digital space. As for how this collaboration may shape the future of design and digital communication? I think that Paperless Post is a perfect example of a service that helps to bridge the convenience of the digital world to the (much-needed) soulful space of in-person gatherings and celebrations.” Justina Blakeney
James Hirschfeld, Co-Founder and CEO of Paperless Post
Paperless Post is known for doing beautiful collabs across the design, interiors and fashion community. What about these industries makes it an ideal partner for Paperless Post? Has it been successful for acquisition, driving awareness? What is the main goal with these collabs?
“Paperless Post has always strived to make the most beautiful, original and expressive designs available to our users. For the last 15 years, we have partnered with designers and brands that are leaders in their fields because we believe that experts with well-honed aesthetics will create a truly special product that our discerning customers value. This is the motivation behind our new collaboration with Jungalow. Justina’s deep archive of extremely popular patterns, textiles and forms was an endless source of inspiration for our design team and I believe the collaboration yielded a product line that feels totally unique and completely new in the world of stationery.” James Hirschfeld
Thank you Justina & James!
New Store Openings & Pop-Ups
Nordstrom’s Men’s Store in NYC is opening a Jacquemus pop-up for September.
The Business Section
Fashion & Beauty Business News
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