Fashion 🌀 Spiral: Athleisure & Fashion in Sports

Let's get sporty (fashion edition)

Sarah Shapiro

Jul 23, 2024

The Athleisure Revolution: From Professional Sports, Working Out to City Streets (or couch.) No judgement, all fashion.

Introduction

Once workout wear was whatever old t-shirt you had and a pair of nylon shorts (which are totally trending again.) Then workout wear got an upgrade. We wanted to wear it all the time and then we created the term “athleisure.” For an on the go lifestyle it also works well for whenever you might slot a workout in. Here are some of the details:
- Comfort-driven fashion: Athleisure reflects a broader shift towards prioritizing comfort in everyday wear, without sacrificing style. Nike was designed as performance wear which didn’t always resonate with a casual gym go-er. Then Lululemon, Athleta, Outdoor Voices, Alo Yoga and more came out as an answer for someone who was looking for play or pieces vs sprinting a sub 6 minute mile.
- Versatility: These pieces transition seamlessly from workout to casual settings, aligning with busy, multifaceted lifestyles. Throwing a blazer over workout leggings and many women feel ready to take on what is next.
- Cultural impact: It represents a cultural shift where health, fitness, and an active lifestyle are valued and showcased through fashion choices. For many this becomes an identity and connecting with others who might have a similar POV.
- Market growth: The athleisure sector has seen significant economic growth, becoming a major player in the fashion industry. We see athletic styles on the runway as well and introduced into high-fashion that aren’t athletic lines.
- Celebrity influence: Athletes, celebrities, and influencers have played a crucial role in popularizing and legitimizing athleisure as a fashion category. I love that now there is also a blurring line as athletes are becoming fashion icons and the runway is the tunnel walk. We’ve also seen plenty of paparazzi shots of celebs entering and leaving gyms and workout studios.
- Blurring of dress codes: Athleisure has contributed to the relaxation of traditional dress codes, making it acceptable to wear sportswear-inspired clothing in a variety of settings. Although this was trending before 2020, what happened in March 2020 and COVID WFH and Zoom meetings further pushed the trend for sure.
This trend isn't just changing how we dress – it's reshaping the whole fashion game, from runway shows to retail floors. And let's be real, who doesn't love an outfit that can keep up with our non-stop lives and functional no matter what the situation is?

Fashion History: The Origins of Athleisure

Roots in early 20th-century sportswear
- The OG athleisure pioneers: Think tennis whites and polo shirts that went from country club (tennis and golf) to city streets and casual weekends.
- The comfort revolution: in the 1950s and 60s we see the white t-shirt in the open. Previously only worn as an undershirt, now worn to be rebellious a la James Dean. Cue the rise of casual wear and the birth of the T-shirt as an everyday staple. For more insights on this, check out the Retail Diary Fashion 🌀 Spiral on White T-shirts.
Evolution from purely functional to fashion-forward
- With brands popping up to focus purely on athleisure and workout wear we are also seeing design elements and details applied. Fashion trends impact sportswear in the same way they they impact workwear, high-end fashion etc.

Cultural Moments in Sportswear

Let’s look at the tracksuit as an example:
- Born on the track: The track suit made its debut in the 1960s as pure performance wear. Picture athletes warming up in matching jackets and pants, looking sleek and sporty.
- Fast forward to the 1980s and '90s, and the track suit becomes hip-hop royalty. Run-DMC rocks their Adidas suits, and it becomes a bigger trend as hip-hop artists style the track suits, jerseys and sneakers.
- Velour takeover: The early 2000s saw the rise of the velour track suit. Juicy Couture was everywhere and on every trendy celebrity with a crystal embellished logo billboard on the bum.
- High fashion’s turn: By the 2010s, luxury brands are all over the track suit. Gucci, Balenciaga – you name it, they're putting their spin on this sporty classic.
1980s: Aerobics boom and the influence of Jane Fonda
- Living rooms across America transformed into mini gyms, all thanks to Jane Fonda's wildly popular VHS tapes.
- No more boring grey (FYI - I don’t find grey boring!!) but now there is a color and pattern explosion: Shiny leotards in every neon shade imaginable. Hot pink, electric blue, lime green - the brighter, the better! And mixing of colors. I keep envisioning this from 1983.
- Fit to be fit: Those high-cut leotards, shiny spandex, and leg warmers weren't just for show. They were all about highlighting toned bodies and allowing freedom of movement.
Olympics & Fashion: A turning point for sportswear in fashion
- In 1976 Halston designed uniforms for the athletes for the Opening Ceremony. In the 1980s this tradition took off with an “Out West” theme and Levi’s taking over. In the 1990s Ralph Lauren brought in his Americana styling to the Olympic Uniforms for the US. This opportunity of designing the Opening Ceremony Uniforms also gave brands marketing messaging and PR all around the athletic theme. Why not take advantage and sell to fans too?
Sports Bra - I think we have Brandi Chastain’s 1999 winning World Cup penalty kick to thank for that. I still love this moment and it makes me emotional in the best way.
2000s: Yoga's popularity and the birth of yoga pants
- As yoga surged in popularity, class attendees and those practicing needed gear that could bend and stretch with them.
- The rise of the yoga pant: Comfortable, “flattering” (or marketed this way), and versatile - yoga pants quickly became the go-to for both downward dog and downtown errands.
- Studio to streetwear: Brands like Lululemon led the charge in making yoga wear that looked good enough to wear all day.
Boutique fitness fashion across all workout trends: SoulCycle and other trendy studios started dropping their own gear, turning workout clothes into community badges.
- Athleisure goes mainstream: Suddenly, it was totally acceptable (and even fashionable) to wear your workout leggings pretty much everywhere.
- We now see sports brands partnering with studios and fashion lines selling in gym shops.
- For brands like Peloton, Soulcycle etc selling the clothing you wear means they can market the studio/platform outside of the classes, they can also drive engagement in classes and subscriptions by throwing in gear as a GWP1 and it can be a type of upsell. Why not have your most devoted fans also be a walking billboard for you?
Certainly social media has had a huge impact here too. In my research it was noted that the #1 person on Instagram with the most fans is Cristiano Ronaldo and the #2 person is Lionel Messi. Both major football (soccer) stars! Having a huge audience on social media can increase your reach in all areas, including fashion & style.

Rings from top left: Blue lab-grown Sapphire, black onyx, red lips, gold cloud band, emeralds. Bottom left to right: thin set of bands (use code SarahShapiro15 for 15% off your order at AGJ), linked rings (wear on the same finger or spread apart!)

Professional Sports and Athleisure

Basketball: The impact of Air Jordans and NBA player collaborations
- Air Jordan revolution: When Michael Jordan debuted his signature shoes in 1984, he didn't just change basketball – he changed fashion (and marketing.) Those black and red kicks were so hot, they got banned by the NBA, making them instantly iconic. Before Jordan basketball shoes the colors of the shoes on the basketball court for filmed games was regulated.
“The NBA’s ban on Jordan’s black and red colored sneakers incurred a fine of $5,000 per game. Nike ran with the “banned narrative” that became their own kind of advertising campaign, selling $70 million worth of Air Jordans within two months of the sneaker’s release.” Thilo Kunkel, Temple University Faculty
- Sneakerhead culture: Air Jordans sparked a collectors' frenzy, turning athletic shoes into coveted fashion items. Suddenly, everyone wanted to "Be Like Mike," even if they couldn't dunk.
- Player style off-court: The NBA tunnel walk became a runway show. LeBron James, Russell Westbrook, and James Harden turned pre-game arrivals into major fashion moments, influencing streetwear trends. The players of the WNBA are again bringing incredible fashion and style to the tunnel walk. Check out this incredible piece by Emma Childs for Marie Claire “The Stylists Turning the Tunnel Walk into a Fashion Show.”
Tennis: From classic whites to colorful, tech-forward designs
- Serena Williams' catsuit moment: When Serena rocked that black catsuit at the 2018 French Open, it wasn't just a fashion statement – it sparked conversations about athleticism, motherhood, and dress codes in sports. Serena Williams shared her own thoughts with CNN what this meant and how it came to be. I’d like to think this bold statement is one of the reasons we are seeing so many great “onesies” or catsuits trending in athleisure now. See this from Year of Ours, Alo Yoga with an open back, currently on sale at Gap and available in a range of sizes and colors at Universal Standard.
- Roger Federer's elegant influence: Federer's partnership with Uniqlo brought a touch of minimalist chic to tennis wear, proving that athletic gear can be sophisticated. Of course with JW Anderson’s touch. Federer has also partnered with On (and On with Loewe) for a sleek tennis shoe. All this before Zendaya challenged him to an Air Tennis Match.
- Andre Agassi's rebel style: Back in the '90s, Agassi's bold colors and denim shorts challenged tennis' stuffy image, paving the way for more expressive athletic fashion.
Soccer: The crossover of jerseys and training wear into everyday fashion
- David Beckham: The ultimate soccer-fashion crossover star. Beckham's ever-changing hairstyles and off-field fashion choices made soccer kit cool beyond the pitch. Let’s face it, I’m sure being linked with Victoria Beckham helped with fashion points too!
- Jersey culture: Club jerseys became streetwear staples, with fans repping their teams from stadium to street. High-fashion brands like Balenciaga even started creating luxe versions of soccer jerseys. Balenciaga partnered with Adidas too.2
- Tracksuit chic: The soccer warm-up suit, championed by teams like Arsenal, became a streetwear essential.
- Megan Rapinoe's bold statements: Using her platform and style to advocate for equality, Rapinoe showed how athletes can influence both fashion and social conversations. Love her looks on the field, training, casual and heading to court (thank you Megan Rapinoe, team and all who support!!!)
These sports stars didn't just excel in their fields – they became cultural icons, using their visibility to transform functional sportswear into covetable fashion items. Their influence bridged the gap between performance wear and street style, making it cool to rock athletic gear whether you're heading to the game or just grabbing coffee.
🏀 Quick note: I write a lot (too much good stuff to share!) so if you’re reading via email only, you may need to click through to the web version or read on the Substack app. I promise it will be worth it. 🏅

Key Athleisure Brands

This is hardly a comprehensive list - I could write so much! Here are a few key players we should discuss

Lululemon: Leggings/Yoga pants made a name for them in athleisure and sportswear and now Gen Alpha are making it super popular for a new generation. My tween loves these shorts and the Scuba which has been a Lululemon staple for years. They are also an innovator for adopting early to owning their own resale and I’ve always been impressed with how they launched markdowns as a “we made too much.” Of course, Founder Chip Wilson keeps getting into hot water over saying the most ridiculous, inappropriate and horrendous things. So let’s not completely overlook that.
Alo Yoga: this article from the WSJ by Rory Satran says it all “Alo Yoga Is Beating Lululemon at Its Own Game” (gift link to read behind paywall.) Personally I’m a big fan of this brand. I love the leggings in this material and this material. I have two sports bras from the brand for low impact and high impact. I think their tennis collection is fantastic too. It is smart that they also have a “Travel in Alo” navigation and category filled with comfortable pieces to wear when traveling. Alo Yoga is innovating in how they serve their customers in their own shops with spaces flexible for classes and they are exploring the supplement, body care and home world too.
On & Loewe: Sneakers: On appeals to so many across ages and ability. From the tennis court to travel ‘fits. Due to the comfort, clean lines and the easy to wear/put on. Plus, On partnering with a high-end fashion house like Loewe appeals to a high-low dressing. Or, just go for the Flow Runner for a sleek sight seeing sneaker. On is also innovative in offering Onward, a platform to trade in your old sneakers for rewards and they will help recycle/reuse them.
Outdoor Voices: The brand has been challenged, perhaps by growing too quickly, taking on too much in financing and being over valued. They were also very founder led and when Ty Haney wasn’t there it felt like the center and edge was missing. They brought the idea of not having to be the “ultimate” in a sport to still enjoy exercise. But they really put the Exercise Dress on the map, which is a staple silhouette now. In 2021 NYTimes published “We Have Reached Peak Exercise Dress” (gift link to read behind paywall.)
Left on Friday: I have mentioned how much I love this swimsuit multiple times. I love the whole brand. They now have workout wear too. The material is fantastic and feels so sleek and holds up incredibly well. If they can support Beach Volleyball Olympians I know they can handle what I throw at it. The Co-Founders have deep roots in sports apparel and are athletic in their everyday life. You can also hear more about the brand in
Hillary Kerr
’s interview with the founders on Second Life (a favorite podcast for her excellent questions) Laura Low Ah Kee and Shannon Savage: Co-Founders of Left on Friday. Jill Manoff from Glossy also interviewed the LoF Co-Founders here. I might have just filled up another cart from LoF because I need a sun shirt and they have a great cropped one that would be great to layer with my one piece but I might try with these bottoms.
Sporty & Rich - you can read about the brand in
Emily Oberg
’s Substack here. The brand was a new model - inspirational imagery turned into a brand all based around stylish athleisure. Last summer Jessica Testa for the NYTimes wrote a deep dive about Emily Oberg, Sporty & Rich and being the next sporty/wellness Goop brand. “Is the World Ready for Another Goop.”
Nike - The OG that has never gone out of style. They support athletes across many sports and abilities and have deep roots and history of styles to pull from. They certainly have their challenges in running such a large global business (layoffs have been hitting the news lately) but I have no doubt they will figure it out. They’ve partnered with Jacquemus (love the recent Olympics campaign - incredible and epic) and Sacai to name a few. Perhaps one of the most epic is Virgil Abloh and Off-White and what Abloh did for Streetwear and Nike.
Wales Bonner x Adidas is worth checking out too and has helped keep the Samba on fashionable feet.

Other brands I love: Athleta (this bra), Vuori (these legging joggers and these shorts), Year of Ours (this tank, this long sleeve), Girlfriend Collective (I wear these leggings and own multiple pairs in the black because I love that there is zero logo on the leg or anywhere visible.) I do like this “posture improving” sports bra for low impact walks. Is it improving my posture? I’ll be honest, no clue, but I do like the fit. Love seeing Away also partnered with the USWNT players.

Do you have a favorite workout brands? Share in the comments or let me know your favorite fashion + sports moment.

Athleisure in High Fashion

Athleisure beyond the streets, gym and on the runway. Miu Miu Fall 2023 leggings and this looks very much like leaving the gym. See looks 10 & 12 for example.
Technical knits and fabrications - anoraks (see Khaite’s), Stella McCartney’s track inspired looks (and her collections with Adidas) and football (soccer) scarves on the runway at Chanel’s Metier D’Arts Manchester show as an homage to the local football team.
Celine does pilates (with Kaia Gerber modeling as maybe a nod to this.)

Styling Tips

Kristin Juszczyk is changing the game of dressing to watch the game and tunnel fits. Her husband, Kyle Juszczyk 49’ers Fullback, regularly wears her designs. So have Taylor Swift and Simone Biles.
I love to layer my chambray shirt, a blazer (the scuba material of this one makes it a great match), ballet flats or dressed up jewelry like this necklace or a tennis bracelet to take it from gym to the rest of my day.
Style underneath with Skims - WNBA partnership.
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Beauty, Accessories & More

Beauty Innovation
- I haven’t even scratched the surface in this post - trackstars nails!! OMG. Sha’Carri Richardson and Flo-Jo’s nails are unlike anything else and bring so much joy.
- Growth of easy on the go make-up that doesn’t irritate skin? Love this content from Merit Beauty of Allyson Felix doing a GRWM on the treadmill.
- Glossier supporting the WNBA! I love this court that is total artwork!
Personal Care Innovation & Recovery
- I’m a fan of the Thigh Rescue by Megababe brand founded by
  Katie Sturino
  . It’s great to use before a long run or tennis. This anti-chafe stick really changed the game from using generic vaseline that sort of worked. The whole brand has developed so many items that are great for gym go-ers. Innovation in deodorant like Geo Deo which contains baking soda providing extra coverage for sweat. Chesto Presto is a chest acne spray but can be used anywhere to prevent body acne and Toe Deo is a foot odor spray. Bust Dust will also keep you fresh-er as you workout.
- For rest and repair there are also so many more options. Beauty Wellness brand Kate McLeod has a Body Gua Sha to work out tired muscles. For outdoor workouts (hiking) I’m enjoying the Natural Insect Repellant by the brand.
- Therabody has helped the everyday athlete after first being tested on the professionals. We also have these Normtec for leg recovery and I find them really helpful.
Accessories and add-ons for styling the look
- Bala Bangles has bring wrist and ankle weights from boring neoprene to almost a fashion statement with jewelry like styling and on trend colors.
- I love how one of my favorite Peloton running instructors, Marcel Dinkins, often wears anklet chains. Which work well over crew socks, which is the trend now.
- I could write a whole other post on water bottles, but I won’t. There is enough content though.