Fashion 🌀 Spiral: Chore vs Barn vs Army vs Field Jackets

These jackets are getting me super excited for Fall. Before I can choose one though I need to dig into the history, differences and similarities between them all.

I’ve been seeing a lot of great Field Jackets (often used to encompass the category of Chore, Barn, Army etc.) across Substack, Instagram, Retailers/Brands and more than ever, they have really caught my eye. Of course as I look at them I start to spiral 🌀 and think about which is right for me. If you are in the same field (boat didn’t feel right here) maybe this 🌀 will help you too.

History

Chore vs Barn vs Army vs Field Jackets

• Chore Jacket: Originally designed for workers, it's typically unlined, made of sturdy fabric like cotton duck¹ or denim, with multiple large pockets. It has a boxy fit and usually falls at hip length. Time period: estimated late 19th to early 20th century, around the 1920s. These jackets evolved from work wear used by laborers and farmers in France and the United States.

• Barn Jacket: Similar to a chore jacket but often slightly longer and may be lined for warmth. It's designed for outdoor work and usually made of waxed cotton or canvas. It might have a corduroy collar. Time period: estimated mid-20th century, likely around the 1950s-1960s. These developed as a variation of the chore jacket, adapted for colder weather work.

• Army Jacket: Inspired by military designs, it's often made of olive drab cotton or nylon. It usually has four front pockets, epaulets on the shoulders, and a more fitted silhouette than chore or barn jackets. Time period: estimated mid-20th century, with popular styles based on designs from World War II (1940s) and the Vietnam War era (1960s-1970s).

• Field Jacket: Similar to an army jacket but often with more pockets and a belt. Time period: estimated first standardized version was the M-1943, introduced in 1943 during World War II. However, the concept of a field jacket dates back to earlier military uniforms. (Here you might want to refer back to the Trench Coat 🌀)

  

  Not always, but often the case. A quick glance to compare.

More Similar Styles:

• Work Jacket: A general category that can include chore and barn jackets.

• Trucker Jacket: A short, fitted jacket, often in denim.

• Coach Jacket: A lightweight, unlined jacket with a collar.

Pop Culture References

Chore Jacket

• Bill Cunningham wore his signature French, blue worker’s jacket to snap pics

• Worn by Steve McQueen in various films, contributing to its cool factor

• Popular among artists and creatives, like Jean-Michel Basquiat in the 1980s

• Featured in recent TV shows like "Stranger Things" for a retro 80s look

Barn Jacket

• Often associated with rural Americana and seen in films set in the countryside

• Worn by Robert Redford in "The Horse Whisperer" (1998)

• Featured in Ralph Lauren, J.Crew, LL Bean campaigns, elevating its status as a preppy staple.

Army Jacket

• Iconic look of John Lennon in the late 1960s and early 1970s

• Worn by Robert De Niro in "Taxi Driver" (1976)

• Popularized by anti-war protesters during the Vietnam era

Field Jacket

• Harrison Ford as Indiana Jones wears a variation in the film series

General Trends

• These jackets saw a resurgence in fashion during the 1990s grunge era

• They've been consistently popular in streetwear and vintage-inspired fashion

• High-fashion brands like Gucci, Saint Laurent, and Balenciaga have released luxury versions in recent years. Burberry has also popularized these styles as a core part of their outerwear assortment.

How to Choose:

• Functionality: Chore and barn jackets are great for actual work or a rugged look. Army jackets are more versatile for everyday wear.

• Weather: Barn jackets are often better for cold weather. Chore jackets are good for layering. Army jackets can vary as sometimes they are thicker and with extra lining. With a thinner cotton all these can be great as transitional wear between seasons.

• Style: Chore jackets have a workwear aesthetic. Army jackets have a military-inspired look. Barn jackets strike a balance between rugged and refined.

• Fit: Chore and barn jackets are usually looser, while army jackets tend to be more fitted.

The choice ultimately depends on your personal style, the climate you live in, and how you plan to use the jacket. Some also lean more casual vs others a bit more dressed up.

I have 3 different Army Jackets that I love and have owned for many years. A classic J.Crew (similar style linked, but mine is lighter weight) that I found on major sale about 10 years ago, a Harvey Faircloth that I hunted for a few seasons after seeing

Marlien Rentmeester

post a similar one on

Le Catch’s Substack

and I found on sale on The RealReal. Another TRR hunt and eventual purchase was this Veronica Beard lace Army Jacket.

This season I’m looking for either a great black Chore or Barn Jacket or a Suede Chore Jacket. A few I’m eyeing below.

Let’s shop current offerings:

• This suede - I don’t have any items in suede but I am loving it right now. I really would love to invest in a jacket like this and a hobo or bucket handbag.

• A chore jacket - I think in black, but I’m also still thinking about this jacket in Navy.

• I wore this throughout junior high and high school.

• The Great just launched their Collectors collection of pieces inspired by their favorite vintage finds. This Army Jacket is pretty epic.

• Toteme’s Barn Jacket is a favorite for a good reason - it is beautiful.

• Nice range of sizes from Universal Standard.

• In the cotton material you can also have it embroidered.

• I love the pockets on the Pascual.

• Kallmeyer Chore Jacket is available in white and blue denim.

• This Chore Jacket in the bright blue immediately made me think of Bill Cunningham (more on that below)

• The Only Jane by

  Jane Herman
  has a great Chore Coat currently available in Salt (white)

• Barbour has so many classics in Wax that are great for light rain. This is more fitted, a looser fit and a quilted option.

• Carhartt has a great option under $100 and comes in a range of sizes and edited colors.

• The lines on the Loewe make my heart melt. It is so so good. Here it is in Wax and a find from eBay - Field Jacket from Loewe.

• This denim Chore Jacket from La Ligne is perfect to dress up or down. See it in action here worn exquisitely by Valerie, one of La Ligne’s Co-Founders. (10% off your first order with code SarahS10)

• Jenni Kayne has a great option here in a faded/washed black.

• This red denim jacket has a fitted field jacket cut.

• Classic Utility jacket

• How cool are the clasps here?

• Love these gold button details on Anine Bing’s army jacket.

• Don’t sleep on the Old Navy version - it is well cut, under $60 and comes in a range of sizes.

  

🛍️ This post is long (too much good stuff to share!) so you may need to hit “expand” or read it in your browser - I promise it will be worth it! 🛍️

Looking for more content?

Me too! This is what I found:

• From Highsnobiety, “HERE’S WHY BARBOUR IS STILL THE BOSS OF BRITISH STYLE”

• WSJ’s Jacob Gallagher “Why the Chore Coat Is an Ideal All-Season Blazer Alternative”

• Styling Guides:

  • Leandra Medine Cohen
    “Letter of Rec #066: It's time to get a field jacket”

  • I LOVE this

    THE LOVE LIST
    by
    Jess Graves
    “The List: It's About to Be a Field Jacket Fall” because yes, yes it is.

  • Another great find is from

    Sarah | Fewer & Better
    “Which Field Jacket is Right for You?”

  • Irene Kim (김애린)
    wrote “093/ Beyond Outerwear: Three Ways I'm Leveraging My Utility Jacket” and styled to perfection. Her Utility Jacket (another term I could add above) feels like a Field Jacket meets Barn Jacket and is a great example of how these styles are blended together. Maybe even a bit of an Army Jacket.

• NYTimes Ella Quittner “The Humble Item That’s Become a Restaurant Status Symbol” (gift link to read behind paywall.)

“Does its current ubiquity stem from a cultural fixation with “The Bear,” the printer ink hardly dry on Jeremy Allen White’s underwear ads? Maybe, chef. Or perhaps the restaurant industry is merely catching up to the Carhartt-ification of Bushwick and the spate of work-from-homers getting dressed to go nowhere.”

• Bill Cunningham Forever 💙📷🚲

  • NYTimes: “Bill Cunningham’s Trademark Bicycle and Jacket Join the New-York Historical Society”

  • GQ: “Dropping Knowledge: Bill Cunningham's French Workman's Jacket”

  • The Guardian: “Stylewatch: Bill Cunningham’s Jacket”

    

    Vintage Who What Wear giving me all the feels

What do you think? Are you into this style of jacket? Any requests for future fashion 🌀 spirals?

xx

Sarah Shapiro

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1. Cotton duck, also known as duck, duck cloth, or duck canvas, is a heavy, plain-woven fabric made from 100% cotton. Cotton duck is woven by combining two yarns into a single warp yarn and using a single yarn for the weft. This results in a denser weave than regular canvas, which gives cotton duck a smooth hand and makes it more tightly woven than plain canvas.