Fashion 🌀 Spiral: In The Trenches
✨ fashion deep dive focused email ✨ let's look at the classic Trench Coat and go beyond the battlefield beginnings of this timeless piece
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Welcome to my Fashion 🌀 Spiral, where I curate and share the articles and content that spark my curiosity and send me down rabbit holes of history, design, trends and fashion discovery. From the latest trends, to fashion and style moments, and our beloved “basics.” I generally see a seed of a trend or idea and I can’t get it out of my head because it leads to past history, inspiration or a whole broader curation. Today, let’s spiral on Trench Coats!
The trench coat is a beloved classic. With a military past it also crossed over to functional, stylish outerwear for men and women. Today it is just as easy to find a classic trench coat in a traditional gabardine but also plenty of zhuzhed up styles with pearls, leather and sequins. Personally, I remember buying my trench coat (Black Burberry with removable liner - linked similar and another via Poshmark similar here) about 18 years ago. My first calls to share the monumental timeless piece I bought for myself were to my Grandmother and my Mother. It felt like I was reaching another step in both fashion “collecting” classic pieces and adulthood.
Fashion History: TRENCH COATS
The House of Burberry was founded by Thomas Burberry in 1856 (history from Burberry here.) Initially, Burberry focused on outdoor attire, specializing in garments designed for durability and functionality. Before the trench coat’s beginnings, Burberry had already established himself as a respected outfitter, known for his innovative use of fabrics and commitment to quality craftsmanship. The invention of the gabardine fabric, which became the hallmark of Burberry's outerwear, further solidified the brand's reputation for producing high-quality clothing suitable for outdoor activities.
What is gabardine? Gabardine is a fabric that Thomas Burberry invented. Each individual strand is waterproofed before it is woven together to make the fabric. It is resilient and holds shape really well. All of this without being heavy or stiff and it is still breathable. Burberry held the patent on this for 17 years. It expired in 1905.
When Burberry adapted the trench coat for military use during World War I, it was a natural extension of his expertise in creating practical and stylish outerwear. Who better to help design military uniforms than someone who understands durability and functional purposes for outdoor use?!
Following the war, the trench coat underwent a transformative journey from military necessity to a symbol of timeless elegance in the world of fashion. Its sleek silhouette and versatile design caught the eye of civilians, and soon, it became a coveted wardrobe staple. Burberry, recognizing the garment's potential beyond the military, began producing trench coats for the public, incorporating stylish details while preserving its utilitarian roots.
Burberry's trench coat solidified its place in fashion history, becoming synonymous with sophistication and refinement. Over the years, it has been embraced by icons of style and culture, from Hollywood stars to fashion moguls. Its iconic status has been immortalized in films like "Casablanca," where Humphrey Bogart's character sported a trench coat. In the realm of pop culture, the trench coat has transcended trends, remaining a perennial favorite among fashion enthusiasts and influencers alike, a testament to its enduring appeal and timeless allure.
Cultural moments in trench coat history:
Audrey Hepburn in "Breakfast at Tiffany's" (1961): Audrey Hepburn's portrayal of Holly Golightly in the iconic film featured her wearing a classic trench coat accessorized with oversized sunglasses and a chic updo, forever cementing the trench coat's status as a symbol of elegance and sophistication.
Humphrey Bogart in "Casablanca" (1942): Humphrey Bogart's character, Rick Blaine, sported a trench coat throughout the film, epitomizing a timeless sense of style and rugged masculinity. His portrayal popularized the trench coat as an essential wardrobe item for leading men in cinema.
Burberry's Fashion Evolution: Burberry has continuously reimagined the trench coat over the years, adapting it to contemporary styles while preserving its heritage. Collaborations with fashion designers and influencers have kept the trench coat relevant in modern fashion, solidifying its status as a luxury wardrobe staple. The latest collab is with King Charles III private residence Highgrove and artist Holly Mills.
The Matrix Trilogy (1999-2003): The sleek, black leather trench coats worn by the characters in "The Matrix" films became synonymous with futuristic style and rebellion. The coat's association with the film's iconic aesthetic influenced fashion trends and inspired countless imitations in both high fashion and streetwear.
Music Videos: In Beyoncé's MTV VMA 2006 “Ring The Alarm” performance she looks powerful in a trench coat along with her backup dancers all in the full length look. Adele wears a custom made Lanvin glossy trench coat for her “Easy On Me” video. These iconic fashion moment showcased the trench coat as a symbol of strength and empowerment in contemporary culture.
What is it about the Trench Coat
Unisex - Very little changes in the cut of the style and it is a piece that is easily worn. (Just don’t lose that belt, unless you intend to swap out for your own.)
Ideal travel piece - lightweight, perfect for wearing on a plane and super functional.
Lightweight, warm and great for those in-between seasons - light drizzle and you are covered.
Super versatile - can be casual, dressed up, sleek, minimalist, bold, elegant, powerful, mysterious, etc.
What’s underneath is a surprise…
Images via GQ, Hello, Vogue.com, Net-a-Porter, People magazine.
Let’s shop current trench coat offerings:
Classic: Universal Standard (multiple colors and size availability), Nili Lotan, elegant with The Row, Ralph Lauren, Uniqlo and new classic TWP.
Burberry: As classic as you can get.
Cropped: I really like this unique shape and casual look. Khaite, Cos, Mango and By Malene Birger has amazing sleeves.
Romantic Ruffles: available here and here
I Gasped: Khaite (I mean…!!!) and wait, there is more!
Two Tone: subtle contrast
Embellished: a little pearl detail OR a major sparkle moment for evening
Unconventional: but still classic and here sheer. Phoebe Philo’s latest here and a Sandro pleated.
Dries knows the Trench Coat: A patterned piece, exquisite embellished but totally classic, crinkled resale, silk, and a whole assortment here.
Leather: Favorite Daughter here or faux leather Frankie Shop here.
Soft: soft color Sofia Richie Grainge for Solid & Striped, silk Jil Sander elegance and this flowy one is perfect for travel (at a great price!)
Sculpted: and love the burnt color here, this collar!! and with a detachable hood (win win)
Vintage: Issey Miyake, A.P.C, London Fog, Burberry
Mens: Banana Republic (on sale at time of publishing), Burberry
More brands to consider: Everlane, Cos (it has a hood!), Sezané, Athleta for function, Boden, Veronica Beard, Norma Kamali, Toteme
Final Thoughts: a dress inspired by the trench, a skirt here, reminds me of Priyanka Chopra at the Met, don’t forget to add a hat here, here or here.
(Find full link to Sarah’s Retail Diary ShopMy on Trench Coats here - consider it your trench coat boutique with over 70 options.)
All images and more linked here
Looking for more content?
Love this Kate Young video on the Burberry Trench - it is so well done and informative on Burberry and trench coat details.
From French Vogue, “Vogue Encyclopaedia: The history of the Trench Coat”
CR Fashion Book “The History of the Trench Coat”
WSJ “The Trench Coat: An Obsessive, Comprehensive Guide” and on the iterations the Trench Coat inspired “How the Trench Coat Became the Trench Ball Gown. And Skirt. And Corset.” (gift link to read behind paywall.)
From the Smithsonian, “The Classy Rise of the Trench Coat”
A deep dive from BBC “The trench Coat's Forgotten WWI Roots”
- wrote “The Transitional Trench Edit” looking at recent versions on the runway and a wonderful assortment to shop.
- wrote “Trench Coat Season is Upon Us” with a lovely edit
- wrote “Take Me Down to Trench Town” with vintage inspiration and her edit.
And
considers it a classic from her “The Essentials Guide”
Any requests for future fashion 🌀 spirals? I’m thinking of doing an accessory next. What do you think? Do you have a favorite trench coat memory? Leave a comment and share.
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This was a really great read!
Loved this so much! You really nail the fun/informative balance on these deep dives!