Retail Diary: Book Club: The Kingdom of Prep
Retail Diary: Book Club: The Kingdom of Prep
A start-up story. A family business story. A retail icons story. Reality. Prep (but not prep.) Let's read into it.
"The Kingdom of Prep: The Inside Story of the Rise and (Near) Fall of J. Crew" by Maggie Bullock order your own copy from Bookshop.org, pick up at a local book store or reserve from your Library.
Overview:
Before Jenna Lyons & Mickey Drexler there was Arthur Cinader and his daughter Emily Cinader launching a catalog business around the lifestyle of Prep without being preppy. If you love reading about start-ups, fashion, American style and business this is a great quick and easy read. Think of it as an extended addition of a Vanity Fair x Women’s Wear Daily article from fashion journalist Maggie Bullock.
Highlights:
Reading about all the J. Crew employees over the years. Yes, we all know about Jenna Lyons and Mickey Drexler. Now dive in and read more about Sid & Ann Mashburn, Brian Sugar, Todd Snyder, Emily Cinader Woods (and here), Jennifer Foyle, etc.
How Brian Sugar pitched his skills to the J. Crew CIO to launch jcrew.com, and how he was in a race with Aileen Lee (now Cowboy Ventures Founder & Managing Partner) as she was launching gap.com.
Comps and the impact on the overall business (circa 2012.) “As early as 2012 “it was always, ‘What sold well last year? How are we going to anniversary that?’” says a former designer. “It was ‘L.Y. vs T.Y.’” - last year vs this year - “all that corporatespeak.” Having to “anniversary” your own wins is a slippery slope.” page 275. It is truly the push and pull of financials vs creativity.
Image Notes:
A model on the cover of the J. Crew catalog in 1995 in a look that would be just as perfect in 2023 (maybe even called “quiet luxury.”)
Lauren Hutton on the cover of the J. Crew catalog in 1997.
Brights and bubble necklaces - often paired with pencil skirts, sheath dresses and skinny pants. A big hit in 2012 and then debated how to Anniversary for the next season.
Content YMAL (aka: you might also like):
Vanity Fair is where Maggie Bullock explored the J. Crew topic.
Maggie Bullock interviewed by Hillary Kerr on the Who What Wear podcast.
THE J. Crew blog: J. Crew Aficionada
With RHONY Jenna Lyons has been expanding her style presence again and I love seeing the fans resurrecting looks of hers. Most recently I saw other influencers styling a denim jacket as a shirt a la Lyons.
Recently Rachel Tashjian at the Washington Post wrote about Jenna Lyons on the subject of taste.
Big Takeaway:
Hiring people who are passionate about their work and believe in the company’s mission and direction to move forward is so important.
The idea of a brand that is dedicated to a single lifestyle/look vs being a brand that is driving fashion trends. Something I’m noodling on.
Unrelated:
What Else I’m Reading:
Bad Summer People - this is the beach read for your next relaxing vacation.
Meet Me At The Lake - love this blurb "Meet Me at The Lake is a beautiful, heart-tugging, love story about secrets, lies, missed connections and second chances. Set against the idyllic backdrop of a family hotel on a rural lake, this novel brims with the warmth of summertime and the feeling of home. An exquisite, emotional read."
--Jill Santopolo, New York Times bestselling author of Stars in an Italian Sky
Independent Book Store to Support:
Rakestraw in Danville, CA. I love their customer service, assortment and fabulous events.
Omnivore Books in San Francisco, CA. THE place for a wonderful cookbook.
Thanks for reading Retail Diary: Book Club. Let me know what you think.
Sarah Shapiro
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