Deep Dive - Week of October 21st 2024 - Gift Guide Season Kick Off, Sale Strategy & the latest collabs & launches
From Goop's Gift Guide to how Bloomingdale's plans to reinvigorate department stores - plus all the collabs, launches, favorite finds and are pants slimming down? Let's take a look.
Q4 is my Super Bowl. Except instead of one weekend I celebrate for three months.
This Week's Topics:
New Collabs
New Launches
Field Notes
New Store Openings & Pop-ups
The Business Section
Gift Guide Season has launched
Bloomingdale’s Future
More Fashion & Beauty News
People in the News
What else I ❤️️
New Collabs
Fashion
J.Crew x Christopher John Rogers was the big collab news this week, but not until post launch. It quietly launched Tuesday 10/22/24 late in the day on the mobile app only. I feel like there was a miss here by not sharing ahead of time that a launch would be coming (even with Press/PR a day before or the morning of.) If they had announced a bit earlier it likely would have driven mobile app downloads and more traffic to the app. Once word spread it was available more broadly on the website. You can check out the looks now. Some highlights are the gold metallic barn jacket, CJR’s signature colorful stripes here and here and a v-neck here, and CJR’s bright column skirts with color blocking.
We’ve got more picks than the NFL draft! Okay, this collab between Veronica Beard and the NFL is smart, well played and executed well. BUT there are so many SKUs! It is making my brain hurt. Wondering if the patches can be put on as they are ordered to manage inventory. I also LOVE that they put Kansas City Chiefs (Super Bowl winners and Taylor Swift’s boyfriend’s team) and the Cowboys (DCC fame) at the top of the Landing Page. Touchdown!! Smart site merch move. You can read more about this and the fashion NFL female opportunity here from BoF.
Another sporty spice collab this week was the announcement of Lululemon with the NHL along side Fanatics for distribution. Key points I like in this collab (more from WWD):
First, NHL does not have high engagement with women vs the other leagues. This will help 1) aimed at Men. get more men into the Lululemon customer funnel and 2) help women engage with hockey more.
The belt bag with the team logos seems like a brilliant product to collab on. Hero item from Lululemon.
Finally, distribution in other stores (Fanatics, Lids, team stores) for Lululemon will help with discovery and awareness of the key products (scuba hoodie, metal vent tshirt etc)
Connor Bedard was the first NHL player to be signed by Lululemon so this is the brand’s push into the sport.
Reformation brought back The Collection collab with Laura Vassar of Brock Collection. These are really beautiful pieces and holiday focused. A few highlights: this Veda leather jacket in brown has a fit that isn’t quite oversized but isn’t slim either. The Vera Regenerative Wool Sweater Coat is the perfect wrap coat (yes, bathrobe style - read more here.) You know I love a good sweater - Gwen Oversized Regenerative Wool Sweater. The Maddox Top is an easy answer for what to wear out (if jeans and a top, this is the top.)
Doen x Matilda Goad & Co collabed on a brass engraved swan matchbook sleeve
L.L. Bean x Noah Kahan on a Northern Attitude Collection. I think it was smart to do a collab but keep it super edited here.
Sorel x Proenza Schouler is now available to shop on MyTheresa.
Ganni x Barbour on their third collab collection. Available October 30th here.
Adidas x Wales Bonner latest collab. The pieces continue to look great and have a unique POV. Adidas has made the pieces currently only available on their app vs website. A solid way to drive traffic and engage in the app experience. MyTheresa has the sneakers in stock too.
Beauty Collabs
Stanley x E.L.F Beauty on a Stanley tumbler and a E.L.F. lip balm that LOOKS LIKE A TUMBLER and connects/clips on to the tumbler. This is adorable and looks a little American Girl Doll to me. I’m not a Stanley Tumbler customer but I do think this is a brilliant move. Launches on elf on 10/27 and Target too.
New Launches
Fashion Launches
I love when solid data insights drive business decisions. Knitwear brand &Daughter noticed that men were purchasing the womenswear sweaters, so after 10 years they have now launched a men’s line. It also makes sense as many of the sweaters have been inspired by traditional men’s silhouettes. I would recommend checking out this men’s zip-up (I would buy for my husband and keep for myself) and a really great v-neck. And if I’m placing an order, might as well throw in a red high neck from the women’s section.
Doen new arrivals for Holiday. This lace skirt has been really popular from readers from Sunday’s lace skirt edit. Other highlights include this short and flouncy (how do we feel about that description?) polka dot dress, the Doen tops are really well done and super wearable year after year. Check out the Solange Top if your tops could use some updating. The Pascual Jacket (remember this incredible Barn Jacket?) is back in a Charcoal Herringbone for colder weather.
Also shared on Sunday that The Great launched their Holiday collection. Again, this skirt from the lace edit has been really popular with readers. I have this Plush Fleece Bomber* I plan to wear hiking and to Sea Ranch later this Fall. In the meantime I’m throwing it on for early morning walks. The Crochet Collar Pullover is already sold out in black (reorder coming?) but the white with red is lovely for the holidays too. If you are more of a pants party person, this silver pair has a solid shape to style. The leather column skirt is a classic and would look great with the pullover above.
My favorite pajama/loungewear brand just launched Silksweats reversible sweats. You can see the sweatshirt here and super cozy oversized sweatpants here. If you’d rather pair with a cozy legging, check out the silk ribbed leggings. Lunya also partnered with EMU to bring in two silhouettes of slippers. The Micro Teddy Boot and the Teddy Slipper. Get 15% off with code retaildiary.
Beauty Launches
Merit’s first fragrance launched and I think this sentence, which aims to hit all the high notes (aka SEO terms) captures the key components: Retrospect “Long-lasting, complex, and crafted with clean ingredients, it’s a new perspective on modern fragrance.” For the launch they also partnered with The Gentlewoman on a coffee table book that highlights the art of fragrance and deep connection to memory. You can also learn more about the nose that designed and created the fragrance here. (PS with the Sephora sale coming up you can also grab a bottle during the Sephora sale.)
has a deep dive on Merit’s influencer strategy for launch here “Retrospect: Merit's Influencer Strategy from Tease to Launch”Glossier has been teasing kits and releasing them one at a time. My assumption is they will all be available in early November and it looks like an eyelash curler could be up next. The latest drop was for $82 you can try all 3 Glossier fragrances (You, You Reve and You Doux) in a giant travel size. Personally, since I already know I love Glossier You, I would purchase this to a have a travel size of You and a low lift way to try the other two without investing for both before I know if I love.
UBeauty launched 5 impressive holiday gift sets. Perfect for gifting or self purchase as a travel or discovery kit. I love using gift sets as a way to try new products/brands. Use code SHAPIRO20 for 20% off.
RMS Beauty launched some new beauty products and I was able to try - here is the combo I’m really loving. The Lily Legendary Lip Oil* is a great red - not too bright, not too loud and totally wearable. It’s a subtle red. I’ve been wearing with the Morning Dew Go Nude Lip Pencil*. This lip pencil goes on easy but isn’t too creamy and has a brush on the other end and comes with a mini pencil sharpener. Nice extras and value.
Esteé Lauder launched on Amazon with virtual try-on tools for their foundation shades. They are hoping Amazon is a solid growth driver for the brand. You can check out their landing page and Amazon experience here.**
Field Notes
Pants Getting Slimmer?
I’ve been thinking about the Kick Flares I’ve been obsessed with (two pairs I love here and here) and now I’m wondering if the trend will start to change - the pendulum swing towards a straight leg pant and slimmer cut. Others also love the baggy trouser so this movement towards slim legs would be in contrast to that too.
Then I saw
from write “An Ode to Cigarette Pants” and I realized others are seeing it too.Looking to test the waters back to a slim leg? If you don’t already have in your closet here are a few pairs I’ve been thinking about:
Jules from High Sport - favorite kick flares in a straight leg
Great cropped length on these from ‘S Max Mara.
Veronica Beard zip back scuba pants are super slim and their Renzo pants come in extended sizes and have an extended tab with silver or gold buttons.
Well priced work basics, M.M.Lafleur Foster Pant in PowerStretch for a comfortable fit.
I’m loving the new kick flare Box Weave from Donni so maybe a pair in this material could be in a future launch?
Let’s Sale Away
First, let’s chat promotional strategy. A huge consideration is when to promote (as in time frame.) As a brand/retailer you have two considerations:
Promote when other brands are - shoppers are trained to look for discounts at the same time and might be more likely to open up their wallets and shop. As a retailer you want to capture more of this share of the wallet. Examples: Black Friday/Cyber Monday (BFCM), January White Sale (for bedding and towels) or even when other retailers promote around Amazon Prime Day.
Surprise sale on your own timeline - capture shoppers before another event to not feed into the noise of every brand/retailer competing for attention. Opportunity to stand apart from others and perhaps not go as deep as you aren’t trying to get the lowest price possible. Examples: Birthday Sales or any other one off promotion.
Here is a great example. MIRTH ‘On Holiday’ sale October 23 - 29th. For this event the brand is 30% off a wide range of styles (past season styles) and permanent markdowns are discounted too (so sale on sale!) (FYI discount is automatically applied at check out.) By focusing on promotions now they don’t need to go as hard for the BFCM push. Additionally, I think this works well for MIRTH because they are a strong self purchase brand. For BFCM they can come back and do a smaller push for a tighter time period so they still show up for the customer.
I love this tactic because it also doesn’t feel as frenzied and can capture a loyal customer’s attention or someone who is considering trying the brand for the first time.
This is a great time to buy a special piece for a Holiday vacation you may have planned (check out this playful skirt, a beautiful black eyelet maxi, handmade dress and it has pockets, or a short caftan that is ideal for throwing over a bathing suit or can be worn all day)
J.Crew Friends & Family event is going on now.
Ring Concierge reached out with a promo code special for Retail Diary subscribers. 20% off Fine Jewelry 20% excluding classic and bezel-set diamond studs. Use code RetailDiary20 through October 31st. My picks are these hoops (own and love). If you love the signet ring they have a great one you can monogram here. Read more on the signet ring here from my April Retail Diary research.
Credo Friends & Family use code FRIENDS24 Here are a few of my tried & true favorite picks and what I’m stocking up on (both for gifts and myself).
Loving the new Westman Atelier Skincare Concealer. Gets the job done and feels luxe. I also really like this concealer.
Westman Atelier gift set - these blush sizes, although mini, still last forever for me and I love them. I also love this Westman Atelier Matte Lipstick.
My favorite body oil (perfect timing since I need to restock - my third bottle this year.)
I love the Sidia hand serum. I keep at my desk since it is so lightweight it doesn’t interfere with all the typing I do.
New Finds I’m obsessed with
I love my Jenni Kayne Cooper Cardigan, now there is a Cooper Blazer. Same material, same weight. Different silhouette.
Shoes to dress up holiday looks: Roger Vivier and Gianvito Rossi. Both pairs are 1) special 2) bright 3) mid heel 4) have a fun ornament.
MyTheresa has an epic (exclusive) The Row Belvedere Bucket Bag in a bottle green (Cyprus Pld) that feels like it would make the best prep statement.
New Store Openings & Pop-Ups
Misty White Sidell wrote for the NYTimes about the newest Jacquemus boutique that opened. It is the first US store (one is planned to open in Melrose in LA) and it is the fifth total store to open since the first opened in 2022 in Paris. Of course there were questions about the Chanel rumor and I love this quote”
"Ten years ago Anna Wintour asked me if I want to work for a big house,” Mr. Jacquemus said, referring to a conversation with the Vogue editor that he has brought up in previous interviews. “I told her I already work at one — it’s called Jacquemus.”
Macy’s is opening outdoor markets - Holiday Square at Herald Square and also supporting the Holiday Shop at Bryant Park. This is in partnership with Urbanspace. Curious what drove this partnership and if the city is involved.
If you want to try on in person, &Daughter will have a pop-up at Beverly’s on Orchard Street in NYC for the month of November.
Attersee Trunk Show Pop-Up at Hero Shop (Marin Country Mart) Thursday 10/24 and Friday 10/25. In LA 10/29 & 10/30. (Read more about Attersee in this Mini Brand Crush.)
Margaux will be at Goop in Marin Country Mart on Friday 11/1. Another one I plan to be at.
🛍️ Quick note: I write a lot (too much good stuff to share!) so if you’re reading via email only, you may need to click through to the web version or read on the Substack app. I promise it will be worth it. 🛍️
The Business Section
Gift Guide Season has launched
Let’s talk holidays and timing: We will see more Gift Guides before Thanksgiving this year to gear up for Black Friday sales and since there is a shorter time period between Thanksgiving and Christmas this year (31 days for 2022, 32 days for 2023 and only 27 days for 2024!) Hanukkah doesn’t start until 12/25/24 so at least there can be a few extra shopping days at the end of the year (only 2.4% of the total US population, so it doesn’t move the needle, but it does take some pressure off me personally to not have to have my shopping done so early this year. Also a good reminder if you have Hanukkah related merchandise you do not need to promote so early and a slow start to sell-thru might not be an indication of poor sales.)
I consider the Goop Gift Guide as the official kick off to Gift Guide Season. The GGG launched on Tuesday October 22nd and I love digging into it. I had some questions for the Goop team and since it is a team effort over there at Goop HQ the Buying Team and Editors were kind enough to answer some questions. So keep reading for that interview below.
Goop's 2024 Holiday Gift Guide isn't just another luxury wishlist (although it is that too) - it's a masterclass in modern retail storytelling. By segmenting its offerings into eight distinct categories, from a new "Forward-to-Your-SO" collection to the strategic under-$100 edit, Goop demonstrates how premium retailers can successfully span multiple price points while maintaining brand positioning. The guide artfully mixes aspirational items (a Sophie Bille Brahe pearl collar) with accessible entry points (a $28 Goop mascara that I’ve been using and loving), creating multiple customer engagement opportunities.
What's particularly noteworthy is Goop's omnichannel execution: while the digital guide serves as the primary discovery platform, the company is strategically activating its brick-and-mortar network – including its Brentwood, Bond Street, Marin (I visited the Marin store as I was writing this), and Sag Harbor locations, plus luxury hotel retail experiences at Rosewood Miramar Beach and Mauna Lani – to create tangible touch points for high-consideration purchases. It's a sophisticated approach to holiday retail that balances aspiration with accessibility, content with commerce.
Worth checking out:
To snag for yourself - the Goop Long Cuff Crew* is so cozy. I’m obsessed.
For the luxury beauty fan - The Fara Essentials Kit from Fara Homidi. You are able to select your shade.
If your recipient aspires to build
quality flat lays (and have gorgeous tresses) you should gift La Bonne Brosse.My kids are super into chess right now, this Compartes Chocolate Chess Set would have them asking me where the chess pieces were (I would have already enjoyed the rich dark and white chocolate. I’m sure we have extra pieces they can use.)
For the conversation starter, a Danish Fuel Upcycled Bar Cabinet crafted from a WWII-era fuel can or a Walden Salt Lamp, perfect for the Goop enthusiast.
In the Marin location I was able to see Crown Affair’s The Holiday Hair Set and it is a special gift that feels beauty & a little fashion. It also fits in perfectly with the trend of beauty brands creating interesting bags as an upsell. (See my previous notes here.)
And always scroll to the bottom to check out the “Ridiculous But Awesome” items.
Bonus - I met
at the Marin Goop store and had a lovely time chatting with her. Noora has exquisite taste (check out her latest post for proof) and I asked her what she is excited to gift this season.“I’ve had a lurking crush on Rebecca Gardner for years. Her brand Houses & Parties brings a much needed cheekiness to formal entertaining. This hand blown glass caviar service (no silver?! Gasp.) is a lovely way to make caviar feel less serious. I’d serve it with Bonnila a la Vista potato chips.”
And another great suggestion to always have on hand for the last minute hostess gift:
“I revere the art of the objet. I think an array of quirky, gorgeous objects, in varying heights and sizes, sprinkled around a home is what gives it that last layer. This Nicky Kehoe brass opener is a no brainer - a gorgeous, and affordable, gift to give and a better one to get.”
Goop Gift Guide Q&A:
Retail Diary: When does Goop typically start planning for its annual Gift Guide?
Goop team: The editors and buyers start thinking about gift guides pretty much on January 1st and file away ideas for months ahead of time. The buying and editorial departments work hand-in-hand to curate the experiential items and the things we sell on goop.com into 8 category-driven guides. There’s The Cook’s Gift Guide, The Traveler’s Gift Guide, The Wellness Gift Guide and the Forward-to-Your-SO Gift Guide.
Retail Diary: Who are the key players involved in selecting items for the Gift Guide? How does Gwyneth Paltrow's vision influence the curation process?
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