Sunday Scoop - PFW Runway notes, Catalog KPIs & team spirit

A fashion-packed newsletter covering PFW highlights from Loewe, Hermés & Chloé. Steven Alan's return, Catalog KPIs and a bouclé shoe round-up.

PFW Notes

Jonathan Anderson’s Circular Celebration at Loewe

I really loved Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe show for the soft and playful moments that created so much movement. The juxtaposition of feminine details - floral patterns, incredibly light and airy fabrics and round edges. The shoes were exaggerated and much more masculine. They added a casual edge. The circular pattern was repeated in so many ways (boning in the dresses, the venue/runway, the rings as the invitation) celebrating his 10 years at Loewe.

The short dresses felt very fresh and youthful. The leather bags were also both familiar and new in a thick and shiny but also soft and squished puzzle bag. I really love the new trapezoid shaped Madrid handbag (see detail #32.)

Familiar details:

• The flounce and silhouette isn’t new to Loewe. You can currently see flare in the Trapeze denim jacket and the waxed cotton jacket (I love this one). The new leather version (see look #4) is so beautiful and rich.

• The flow runner morphed into the high-top ballet flow runner. (see detail #10)

• The popular Puzzle Edge Handbag (have you seen this season suede version - gah! so gorgeous) was rendered in a thick leather but squished down.

• Boat shoes stick around but get an exaggerated and new two-tone colorway. (see detail #67)

And the joy of Ayo Edibiri at Loewe. Loved it.

Hermés and Nadége Vanhee

Ahead of the Hermés show BoF wrote an article and an accompanying interview with Artistic Director Nadège Vanhee.

The Hermés show was so rich and robust - beautiful shades of khaki, reds and incredible draped fabrics resist looking too heavy with layered mesh fabrics. The handbags were structured but didn’t look hard and they were, of course, still classically Hermés.

Paris Fashion Week - thoughts and images

Chloé and Designer Chemena Kamali

Chemena Kamali's second season runway show brought a lot of interest if she would hit a sophomore slump or could keep the momentum and excitement going. I think she proved that she will continue to bring fresh ideas that reference the past and beautiful clothes that women want to wear (this time around, only if they are at comfort with showing some skin.) The collection showed revealing and body-confident fabrics (no lining) and I really appreciated how Rachel Tashjian wrote for the Washington Post that while it was great seeing models confidently wearing the pieces she’d love to see “today’s woman” also embracing and wearing the looks on the runway. “A Designer Favored by Kamala Harris Embraces Lingerie and Liberation.” (gift link to read behind paywall.) I also enjoyed listening to this week’s The Run-Through with Vogue podcast episode interviewing and speaking with Chemena Kamali.

Retail Review

Steven Alan Returns to Retail

Steven Alan is an incredibly talented merchant with an eye for products that gets people excited. NYTimes article “A King of Cool Casual’s Next Act” (gift link to read behind paywall.) He opened his first store in 1994 and closed his boutiques in 2019 as managing stores and designing products became too much. Alan also was instrumental in giving

Clare Vivier

POs¹ for her handbags as well as helping her grow her Clare V business.

Cataloging KPIs

Maura Brannigan wrote “The Business Case for Physical Retail Catalogues in 2024” for Vogue Business. In this article the argument is made that the ROI for catalogs is more intangible and less tied to conventional marketing KPIs. The article suggests that catalogs aim to:

1. Create an imaginative world for the brand that potential customers can step into.

2. Encourage customers to slow down and engage with the brand in a more leisurely manner.

3. Strengthen connections with both loyal customers and new audiences.

4. Enhance the overall experience with the brand.

The challenge with this is that it is hard to measure these details. How do you measure if the overall experience with a brand is enhanced? Are you measuring if customers actually slow down (or if they are purchasing elsewhere instead. How can you tell?) I would argue there are a few KPIs that you can measure with a print catalog and if it is helping to engage (and eventually convert) a customer. Because that should be the goal. I also believe that a successful business is looking to make sure that every dollar spent will increase revenue and earn more than that dollar spent.

Here are some ideas to add KPIs for catalogs:

1. Brand Awareness:

   • Increase in brand mentions on social media (MIV²)

   • Growth in organic search traffic for brand-related terms.

     • For the J.Crew catalog example you could look at the top items featured in the catalog and see if there were searches. Look on Google, TikTok, Pinterest etc. The article did mention 5.6 million TikTok videos with the “J.Crew Catalog” term but you want to make sure this is new content and not creators looking for older issues.

     • Do the items featured in the catalog sell better? Get more searches on site?

   • Uplift in brand recall in consumer surveys

2. Revenue:

   • Direct sales attributed to catalog codes or QR codes - I would have loved to have seen more QR codes in the catalog. Especially with how catalogs are structured currently.

     • Previously you would have had a retail listed next to every item. This catalog it was impossible to know what the retail was.

     • It is so easy to flip through a catalog and not make a purchase. Find a way to get that customer online to complete a purchase or drive into the store to try-on. This is why many catalogs have coupon codes printed on the back. So the marketing team can directly attribute sales to the catalog/print mailer to see the impact value.

   • Measure to see if there is an increase in online sales during catalog mailing periods but don’t mistakenly attribute increases to other revenue driving campaigns.

   • Higher average order value from catalog recipients vs. non-recipients. Of course this doesn’t account for customers who picked up a catalog in store.

3. Loyalty:

   • Increased repeat purchase rate among catalog recipients

   • Higher customer lifetime value for catalog subscribers

   • Improved Net Promoter Score or customer satisfaction ratings

   • Lapsed customers - did you drive customers who hadn’t purchased in a year plus to make a new purchase?

4. Cross-channel impact:

   • Increased in-store visits or sales following catalog distributions

   • Higher engagement rates with digital marketing among catalog recipients

   • Improved response rates to other marketing channels for catalog recipients

I think it is important to make sure that the time, budget and resources spent on a catalog are worth it. That they help drive revenue (whether directly or indirectly) and bring measurable awareness to the brand.

Wide Leg Denim = New Wardrobe

Last week I wrote about denim trends and explained that the silhouettes that were trending changed seasonally to entice shoppers and drive the desire for purchasing something new. This article from Bloomberg, “First Came the $100 Wide-Leg Jeans. Then the $700 Shopping Spree” expands on that idea and showcases shoppers who have spent money to purchase new items that will pair better with wide-leg jeans vs the oversized tops and sneakers that were paired with skinny jean silhouettes.

Celebrating Glossier’s 10th b-day

A whole decade of Glossier and they are looking to celebrate! There is a Birthday Cake Chrome Candle, Zippo Lighter and a t-shirt with all the stickers from the past 10 years. I also find it cool that they created an acrylic wavy tray for sale. This item actually feels like a no-brainer to sell. You can use as a tray or a soap stand.

Fashion Finds

Sideline Spirit

Cheering on my son’s soccer team this weekend at a tournament means I get to style some game day attire. Thankfully his team’s colors are Red, Black and White. I had fun adding a few pops of red to my look to show some team spirit.

• Favorite Donni Kick Flare Pants are the ideal sideline weekend warrior attire.

• Crisp black t-shirt from Soldout NYC that is the perfect length (as in, not to long and not too cropped)

• Black and white striped sweater for hanging out with the team families in the evening.

• Accessories: glossy red claw clip, Rothy’s red shoes (bonus, throw them in the wash when they need a refresh and comfortable to get plenty of steps in cheering on the sidelines), baseball hat**, sunglasses, Diet Cokes kept cold in this** and Supergoop! Glow Screen stashed in my crossbody bag (I have & love this one too for less than $20.)

What is your favorite game day attire wardrobe essentials? Do you go head to toe team spirit or subtle touches?

Bouclé Season

• Another signifier that we are in Fall - Bouclé is back. Spring 2023 & 2024 I noticed more denim shoes on the market than in previous seasons and this Summer 2024 we saw Raffia shoes. Bouclé isn’t new for shoes (bonjour Chanel) but I feel like seeing multiple pairs in one week, especially as the key item style to be in marketing campaigns, really caught my eye. More texture in footwear has been taking over.

  • Rothy’s launched their bouclé flats and have it featured this week on Instagram.

  • Swooning over Le Monde Béryl’s bordeaux take on a mary jane in bouclé

  • The OG of all things bouclé, loving this Chanel version with the jeweled charms on the strap.

  • Gianvito Rossi has a pair of mary jane flats in a color named “Denim” and my immediate first thought before seeing the name was “these would look great with denim.” There is a heel version of this shoe too in a great black and grey tweed bouclé.

  • The incredibly comfortable ballet flat from Margaux comes in this tweed and the mary jane has this teddy bear bouclé.

  • At a more opening price point, Sam Edelman has a bouclé mary jane.

Bouclé is the latest texture to add to your shoes

Beauty Finds

Exhausted? Me too. Here is what I’ve been using to relax and try to look more wide awake.

• NuFace - A facial massage everyday to lift? Yes please. That is what this feels like to me. Literally after I’ve used on half my face I can notice the difference between the two sides.

• Ziip - I use this in the evening and was completely influenced by founder Melanie Simon’s impeccable skin. The results for me are more about glow than lift but I feel like my skin looks great after using. (Use code RETAILZIIP for 10% off. The code is valid on full-price pieces only, excluding collabs, sale, heritage, home & lifestyle.)

Do you need a device? No. But for me, this is relaxing and helps relieve tension from my jaw.

• Before I wash my hair I love massaging in the Willow Glen Pre-Wash Treatment Oil* from Roz Hair. The scents of the Roz products are delicious and not strong at all. I’ll use this the night before and wash my hair the next day. (Use code SarahS15 for 15% off.)

• I really like a relaxing bath soak. I’ll use these from Flewd, Dr. Teals Epsom Salts** or the Kate McLeod Sleep Pebbles, which you can also use in the shower.

• I didn’t use a bronzer over the summer much, but lately I’ve wanted a hint of color and this Face Glaze Bronze from InnBeauty Project is perfect! I apply higher on the cheek bone and blend with a brush. I feel like I look more awake and put together with a bit of color on my cheeks. The fact that this one has ingredients to nourish the skin (ceramides, squalane and hyaluronic acid) is a plus as color and skincare in one.

Goop x CB2 Collab

Goop x CB2 just launched their latest collab. The pieces all look beautifully Goop & Gwyneth Paltrow coded. This collab has tabletop and decor items available at Goop and the full collection, including furniture, available at CB2. It is smart to have the tabletop items still available on Goop and I’m assuming it operationally wouldn’t work to have the furniture on the Goop site too. Furniture is a specific shopping experience and you need to be able to support the customer service questions, delivery, timelines etc.

Noora Raj Brown

is the EVP of Brand at Goop and also writes a lovely Substack

objects of desire

. Check out her recent send here on items to lust over and shopping principles - all of the items are incredibly chic, and I had already purchased a few, so I’m feeling extra stylish now too. “eight to desire: cravings of bordeaux, kimono pillows, buttery soft loafers, vintage printed coats”

I reached out to

Noora Raj Brown

and asked her for more insights about the collab between Goop x CB2.

“The first goop x CB2 collection was soft and feminine, with chinoiserie as a through line. Our sophomore effort has grown up a bit, an evolution of taste. It’s cooler, more daring, a little irreverent. We joke the metal dining table is a brilliant woman with a vengeance: the metal sheaths are sharp and thin, but the ends finish in a gorgeous rose gold. You see juxtaposition in that vein throughout the collection: in the plaster and marble coffee table, the brass caps on the chairs, even the rose gold cords on the lamps. We believe those little bespoke touches, and that duality of texture and materiality, is what makes a home interesting - and as a byproduct, it makes the person who lives in it interesting as well.”

🛍️ Quick note: I write a lot (too much good stuff to share!) so if you’re reading via email only, you may need to click through to the web version or read on the Substack app. I promise it will be worth it. 🛍️

Substack thoughts

• At 24 years old Jane Pratt founded Sassy magazine (I LOVED Sassy. Anyone else?) and now at 60 years old Pratt is founding a new business on a new platform - Substack.

  Another Jane Pratt Thing
  has Pratt looking to create a modern, inclusive, and uncensored version of her previous successful magazine concepts, adapted for the digital age and subscription model. Read more about it in the NYTimes and subscribe to
  Another Jane Pratt Thing
  on Substack.

• One of the many (many) things I love about writing on Substack is connecting with other writers (and readers.) This week I had the opportunity to chat with

  Ochuko Akpovbovbo
  and
  Lindsay
  and enjoyed hearing about their backgrounds, discovering other writers and the process of writing.

Enjoy your Sunday Scoop. xx

Sarah Shapiro

What’s Next

FYI: With the High Holidays the next few weeks I’ll be observing the holidays and spending time with my family. I’ll still be publishing Retail Diary but might switch up the scheduled days some. The Deep Dive will likely be published on Wednesday or Friday instead of Thursday. L’shana Tovah, a happy and healthy new year to all.

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Items marked with * have been kindly gifted by brands. Thoughts, selections, and reviews are my own.

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1. POs = Purchase Orders

2. MIV = Media Impact Value