Sunday Scoop - Talking Trends, Holiday Ease and Lips

I'm following the trend - and talking about trends. Plus getting in the holiday spirit with the easy pieces I'm wearing from my closet, what I'm looking for (kitten heels) and lip products I love.

Let’s Talk Trends

Is talking about trends trendy too? If so, consider this at least the third post this week - and we know that three is a trend.

The Making of a Trend

I was thinking about this a lot between the Vogue Business article by José Criales-Unzueta “A Peek Behind the Curtain: How do Trends Happen?” and

Totally Recommend

’s post “Fashion’s Crystal Ball Runs on Excel.” Here's my take on how trends actually happen (and why we should care):

The not so secret supply chain

• Fashion houses, both luxury and mass market, often source materials from the same fabric mills and suppliers. While top luxury brands may now have private viewings, the reality is that many brands buy from a limited pool of manufacturers. The more brands that choose a particular fabric or material, the more cost-effective it becomes to produce - which naturally leads to similar trends appearing across different brands.

• To go a level deeper, think about economies of scale and production. Even when designers have different visions, the reality of manufacturing often pushes them toward similar materials and techniques that are cost-effective and readily available. Mass production capabilities often dictate what trends can actually make it to market at scale. If retailers and designers don’t buy enough of a style to put it into production it won’t make it to the selling floor. They need to know they can sell enough to actually warrant ordering it.

The Fashion & Buying Calendar

• Industry Infrastructure and Operations - The fashion industry's shared calendar (fashion weeks, buying seasons, retail delivery schedules) naturally creates synchronization in trend cycles. Additionally, major trade shows, fabric fairs, and industry events mean many decision-makers are exposed to the same influences at the same time. As noted in the Vogue Business article, when the Buyers see something three times they know it will be a trend. So if they are walking a trade show and see “barrel leg pants” over and over they will pick some up for the store and put an assortment together. Now think of all the stores’ buyers walking those trade shows and seeing the same thing.

Inspiration is Everywhere - and thanks to Social Media we all see the same things

• Inspiration - whether it is trickle up (from streetwear to high fashion) or trickle down (from luxury brands to more mass brands) we all have visibility to what is going on in pop culture. Vogue Business pointed out how much designers were paying attention to Ryan Murphy’s Feud: Truman Capote vs the Swans and sure, different designers are inspired by different details and interpret in their own way, but there can be crossover.

The Crystal Ball might actually be Strategy and Forecasting

• Services - many brands use the same trend forecasting services or track the same sites for what is next. If you don’t have an actual crystal ball to predict trends you will use whatever data points you can (insights from customers, trend forecasters, insights from previous season selling.) If you do have a crystal ball, DM me please.

• What consumers should understand about trends is that they're the result of a complex ecosystem where creativity meets the need for a business to be profitable and successful (aka drive revenue with a positive margin.) While designers and brands may start with unique visions, they're all operating within the same supply chain constraints, economic pressures, shared cultural influences, industry infrastructure and data analytics and forecasting tools.

• This means that what appears as a coincidental trend is often the natural convergence of these forces. Mass brands aren't necessarily copying luxury designers - they're responding to the same market signals, using similar resources, and following comparable data. aka all being inspired by the same original source or using the same suppliers. Understanding this helps explain why we see similar trends across price points and why true originality in fashion is both rare and often more expensive.

• The key for consumers is to recognize that trends aren't necessarily good or bad - they're a natural outcome of how the fashion industry operates. What matters is choosing pieces that resonate with your personal style, regardless of whether they're trending or not.

Petite Denim plus Shoes for Denim Lengths & Styles

Nelle Atelier

I had the opportunity to try Nelle Atelier denim, and as someone under 5ft 4inches, petite denim can be a game changer. The proportions of the jeans are so much better. I loved that I put on the Gabi and the length hits me exactly in the right spot so I can show a little ankle. I took my true size and felt comfortable. A pair of denim you don’t need to spend $50 to shorten? Amazing! I connected with Nelle Atelier founder Madeline Cohen and asked her a few denim questions:

Retail Diary: What is your best fit tips for ordering petite denim online?

Madeline Cohen: If you are unsure about your size, don't hesitate to reach out to customer service! Our team are fit specialists - know your measurements and we can help you find your perfect pair. (I can vouch for this. I was able to connect via FaceTime and we talked through fit.)

Retail Diary: What is a denim + shoe pairing you love these days?

Madeline Cohen: I am finding that our Maddy is so fun to style with different shoes because of the slit at the bottom - it drapes really nicely for an effortlessly put together look. A few of my favorites: Adidas Gazelle in Tweed, Penny Loafers and Toteme Sock Boots.

Retail Diary: What is one thing that has surprised you about launching Nelle Atelier?

Madeline Cohen: How much the brand means to our customers, how often they come back and how engaged they are with us. It is what I am most proud of.

Denim + Shoes = A Perfect Pairing

• For more insights on style of jeans and what shoes to pair with it (this is always a huge question for me, especially with boot silhouettes) I love

  Allison Bornstein
  ’s post “The Ultimate Guide to Styling Jeans with Fall Shoes” and one of the reason I was so excited with this post (and AB’s advice in general) is I didn’t walk away feeling like I needed to add anything to my closet.

• The shoes in this post I have covered, and the fact that there are multiple options for each style, if I don’t have one I have another one pair that gets the job done.

• So what did I wear with my Gabi jeans in Kohl? For a casual dinner out, I wore these loafers and this sweater (great weight, love the higher neck and the length.) Earlier this week I paired this tank with a blazer over it and my new mary jane ballet flats for a work meeting.

🛍️ Quick note: I write a lot (too much good stuff to share!) so if you’re reading via email only, you may need to click through to the web version or read on the Substack app. I promise it will be worth it. 🛍️

Field Notes

Prepping for Party & Event Season

I’m always looking for Holiday ready looks that I can comfortably wear. I do not like fussing with a skirt that feels to short, pants that are constricting or shoes that kill my feet. A few items I’m excited to style this season (for parties, work events, or a nice date night.)

• This skirt from Rixo* has a thin elastic waist, the a-line silhouette that is so easy to style and just enough sparkle to make it special. I plan to pair with a favorite black sweater, this one from La Ligne (goes up to size 3x) or this Nili Lotan one I bought many years ago but love to wear again and again for the slightly relaxed shape.

• Colby Pants from La Ligne are perfect for work and especially those days you need to go straight from work to an event. Pair with any sweater or button-up top. For petites you will want to get tailored. I had to get a few inches hemmed.

• Silk pants are a no brainer. I saw these this week (love that they come in a range of sizes and lengths - regular, tall and petite) and while I’m intrigued to try as a new option, I have these in my closet now and feel covered.

• The one thing I feel I could use is a pair of comfortable kitten heels. Would you believe me if I said I had only one pair of heels in my closet? I really don’t wear but lately I’ve been wanting to add a pointy toe kitten heel into the mix to dress up denim and pants. I’m thinking of these (I loved my conversation with the designer recently and I’m so impressed with the brand), these (based on how much I love my loafers these would be a great pick) and these. If anyone has a pair to recommend add to the comments (or if a pair are not comfortable at all please let me know that too!)

• As for a party ready handbag, I’ll be using my favorite Toteme t-lock and switch from daytime crossbody to oversize clutch for evening by unclipping the strap. I also love this little Attersee Brea bag in my closet and can take from my large work tote (I bought mine on eBay.) For cocktail parties I’ve found that my crossbody Bottega Veneta from a few years ago works best because I can be hands free. This one you can also slide the strap off to be a clutch. Clearly I love bags that work for more than one occasion or purpose.

• Layering in jewelry. I’ve talked about how this Dorsey Riviére (Kate tennis necklaces) can go from Day to Night, t-shirt and jeans to black tie and everything in between. Lately I’ve also been loving this 12 stone lab grown white sapphire necklace*. It is just a touch and so simple to wear. I’ll layer with 2-3 other necklaces (or wear alone) and it feels like you aren’t wearing anything. I love the 15 inch to pair with longer 16-18 inch necklaces. And at $210 it is priced so well for quality sparkle.

Easy pieces from my closet I plan to wear all holiday season. Comfort is key.

Fashion Finds

• Perfect timing for the Retail Diary loungewear edit (see here from Thursday’s post) the sweat sets I’m loving from Perfect White Tee are on sale through end of day Sunday November 3rd. Use code ZW2024 for 20% off fleece styles ziggy, stevie and heart. Heart + Stevie make an excellent set but you can dress up the Heart too.

• Looking at top products from this week many have been from Reformation like this holiday or work ready top, this easy and cozy sweater and this wrap coat. Also, Clare Waight Keller’s new jewelry for Reformation. Another new item I have my eye on is this mini East-West crossbody that can have the strap removed.

Beauty Finds

Let’s talk lips.

• Rhode launched 4 new lip phone cases this week. I cannot tell you how much I continue to be surprised that I love this pocket blush and peptide lip tint from the brand. I have the Sleepy Girl combo and I’m so impressed by how deep (but blend-able) the color is and how long it stays on.

• My rms Legendary Lip Oil in Lily is another winner for how easy the color is to wear as a bright. Use code SarahS20 for 20% off on the rms site - make sure to check out their Holiday Gifts Shop including the Lip2Cheek set where you get 3 minis to try out for $32. A great gift or self purchase.

• My party ready lips will be the rms Legendary Lip Oil above, Black Tie from Merit (only available in the Dress Code set - smart way for a brand to sell an exclusive) or this Westman Atelier (in Pip or Le Rouge - I have Ja Reve) that I want to try.

• Sorry to say that this Lip product is amazing. It’s expensive but I love it. And other pampering lip products I like are this scrub (she is not expensive so you don’t have to hate me for this one), my every night for decades essential and don’t forget the SPF (I wear Rosy Brown.) Even in fall or winter.

I love a good lip product.

Retail Diary Gift Guides

• Beauty Gifts - Holiday 2024. Shop here.

• Luxe Upgrades and I’d add two of my favorite hand creams to this list. The retinol hand cream I keep on my night stand comes in a sleek container (my mom and SIL love too) and this hand serum I keep at my desk and the brand did a fabulous collab with

  The Millennial Decorator
  with a chic tray. You can shop all the little luxe upgrades here.

• And while you are shopping this holiday season, don’t forget all of the Retail Diary Community Discount Codes can be found here.

Retail Reads:

Retail

• A great listen rather than a read - Fashion People Podcast with Lauren Sherman had Amanda Mull on this week talking about fashion magazines, the state of media and luxury pricing (especially in the handbag space.) Very interesting conversation and a great podcast for a quick walk.

Fashion

• A fun mini spiral that you’ll just have to roll with me on. I loved this post by

  Amy Odell
  with
  Diana Tsui
  “The ‘It’ Shoes You’ll Soon See Everywhere” and seeing the Miu Miu sock parts had me thinking of a really cool pair of HUE socks I had growing up.

  • The HUE socks I had came packaged as a bright pair of high ankle socks with the lettuce ruffle at the top. Like these** (which I own now and love) but these socks also came with 3 pairs of colored cuffs. Just the top part with the ruffle. You could create the look of wearing 2 or 3 pairs of socks at once without the extra bulk. I had so much fun pairing these socks and mixing up the cuffs.

  • Okay, so that is a fun mini spiral about sock parts and how they were worn. But then I started thinking of HUE and this little known fact - if you remember HUE socks and tights did you know that the Founder of the brand, Sandy Chilewich, is also the founder of the brand Chilewich?

  • I love the Chilewich placemats, doormats, rugs and tabletop items. It is so cool that one designer/founder created two brands focused on fabric innovation and a study in colors in totally different categories.

  • PS

    Amy Odell
    I’m loving the new branding of
    Back Row
    - Congrats!

Beauty

• A look at where the revenue growth in the beauty business is coming from. Beauty Independent asked beauty experts, analysts and VC partners where the revenue growth would come from - price increases or innovation. The question is based on this report from McKinsey & Co. What do I think? I’d love to push brands to make sure there is innovation in developing products customers actually need and want. Create a product that wows me that I didn’t even realize I needed or could exist. Then, make sure your brand has a loyalty catch to keep me engaged and make me know you appreciate my connection to your brand and products.

Odds & Ends

• Don’t have a stylist but wish you did?

  Irene Kim (김애린)
  has you covered with what to wear. “What I’m Buying for IRL Clients”

• I miss Bill Cunningham. Thankfully this week we had

  Leandra Medine Cohen
  with this what real people in NYC were wearing series.

• Ali LaBelle
  created a print mini magazine and I just ordered mine. Sounds like a print magazine I’d love to read with many of my favorite Substack authors included.

• Thank you

  Erika Veurink
  for including me, and 14 other Substackers I love, in sharing the under $200 treasures from our closets that we’ve owned for 5+ years. Mine was all about the one time I found a gem at Zara. I cannot believe I found the exact dress on Poshmark here (M) and here (XS).

• Vote! Vote! Vote! No excuses. Think about how you want to feel Tuesday night - because if we can make our voice heard we can get this done quickly. I really appreciated

  Jennifer Cook
  putting this out there and
  Laurel Pantin
  too with this post.

• In case you haven’t seen it yet, Kamala Harris was on the SNL opener last night - Go vote!!!

Enjoy your Sunday Scoop. xx

Sarah Shapiro

What’s Next

Retail Strategies and Holiday Insights. Each week we will be tackling different topics and interviews with industry experts. This next week, being election week, I’ll still post something between Monday - Wednesday for paid subscribers so I can distract myself from getting too anxious. To keep myself from doomscrolling I’ll write about retail strategies.

Catch up on Retail Diary:

❤️ To let me know you appreciate the Sunday Fashion News.

📧 Maybe even share with someone else who would enjoy.

📱Find Retail Diary on Instagram and on TikTok now too!

💬 If you are on the Substack app or platform join the chat and I’m happy to respond to any questions in the chat or comments here.

🛍️ Retail Diary Community Shopping Codes available here.

You can email me at sarahshapiro@substack.com with any requests or thoughts too - I’d love to hear.

FYI: I use affiliate links where applicable which means I may get a small commission from things you buy (at no cost to you.) Thank you for supporting my work and trusting me. Love that we can enjoy Fashion & Retail together in this space.

Items marked with * have been kindly gifted by brands. Thoughts, selections, and reviews are my own.

**Amazon Affiliate link