Deep Dive - Week of October 14th 2024 - LVMH Earnings Drop, Victoria's Secret Show & Exciting Retail Collabs

I interviewed the Founders of Petite Plume & Parachute on their recent collab, I'm super excited with the La Ligne x Nori sweater shaver and so much retail industry news to dig into.

Breaking down all the latest retail, fashion & beauty news.

This Week's Topics:  

• New Collabs - with a Petite Plume x Parachute Interview

• New Launches

• Field Notes

• New Store Openings & Pop-ups

• The Business Section

  • LVMH Earnings

  • Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show

  • Altuzarra Gains New Minority Investor

  • More Fashion & Beauty News

  • Pricing Strategies

  • People in the News

• What else I ❤️️ 

🚨Through Monday 10/21 I’m running 20% off annual subscriptions for Retail Diary. Now is a great time to subscribe so you don’t miss out on all the content coming up about Q4 Holiday Retail Strategies and Insights. Plus you can read all about ShopMy & Affiliate Marketing that I wrote earlier this week with insights from ShopMy and how La Ligne is using affiliates as customer service, loyalty, data insights and a revenue channel.

I’m not necessarily changing the cadence or frequency, but always good to check in. I try not to send too many emails for Retail Diary, but I want to make sure that is the preference (longer Retail Diary reads, but sent 2-3 times a week.)

New Collabs

Petite Plume x Parachute

These two premium sleep brands - Petite Plume (luxury pajamas favored by celebrities) and Parachute (modern luxury bedding) - are partnering to create an elevated sleep collection that combines their expertise in comfort and quality and brings together an elevated sleep experience. I had the opportunity to check in with Petite Plume Founder (and ex CIA Agent) Emily Hikade and Parachute Founder Ariel Kaye about this collab. Thank you to both Founders are these insights.

Retail Diary: This collaboration brings together two beloved sleep brands with distinct aesthetics. What was the creative process of merging Petite Plume's classic designs with Parachute's effortless California vibe? How did you ensure the final product authentically represented both brands?

Emily Hikade: While our brands do have distinct aesthetics, we actually have a lot in common. The collaboration was born out of a shared love for creating beautiful moments at home. The pieces were inspired by Petite Plume's classic pajama silhouettes in the brand’s softest 100% Pima cotton paired with Parachute's favorite hues in Moss, Bone, and the Dotted Java print. It was the perfect way to combine what we each do best! We invite our customers to experience ultimate comfort with this limited-edition collection. 

Ariel Kaye: I love collaborations that are able to successfully marry distinct aesthetics and brand expertise to create a product that is both unique on its own but celebrates the strengths and point of view of each brand. 

This collection is a marriage of the best of each brand - showcasing Petite Plume’s classic and best-selling pajama style which we all wear and love, with Parachute’s best-selling colors, bone + moss. We know patterns are popular for Petite Plume, so we thought it would be fun to incorporate a pattern that we originally designed for sheeting in our fall / holiday assortment as well. 

Retail Diary: We're seeing an increasing focus on sleep wellness and luxury home experiences. Where do you see the evolution of the sleep and loungewear market?

Emily Hikade: Comfort is key for our customers, now more than ever, and people really want to cherish their time at home. With this collection, and everything we do at Petite Plume, we prioritize crafting stylish yet breathable pajamas that you’ll love to wear. Our designs effortlessly transition from lounging to sleep, ensuring that when you’re ready for bed, you’re wrapped in quality materials that promote a restful night’s sleep.

From the very beginning, selecting the finest fabrics and highest quality materials has been a top priority at Petite Plume. We exclusively use premium textiles in our sleepwear. The Petite Plume x Parachute collaboration features 100% pima cotton—an incredibly soft fabric that delivers unparalleled cozy comfort for everyone.

Arile Kaye: Sleep wellness has been a central focus for both Parachute and Petite Plume since the inception of our brands. We know sleep and comfort have such a big impact on health and lifestyle - and the more emphasis we put on taking care of ourselves in the home, the better we can show up for others in the world. I love that as a category, we see continued growth and evolution with new brands, products, and services that are thoughtfully designed and have meaningful impact in our lives as consumers. I don't think there's a limit to how much people should care about their sleep and the products that enhance that. 

I like to caution that pursuing category "evolution" can sometimes create a pressure to introduce gimmicks or fads that might feel innovative in the moment, but tend to come and go. I think both Parachute and Petite Plume set an example for brands that can evolve and feel contemporary while holding on to the best of the past - like time-tested materials like 100% cotton and linen. I think there's a version of category evolution that brings us back to our roots, as what's old can often be what's good, and I see that trending in other retail sectors as well.

Retail Diary: What was the driving force of this collab? What brought these two dreamy brands together?

Emily Hikade: When the opportunity arose to collaborate with Ariel, I knew that we both shared the same value of quality, style, and premium materials, so we knew we had to join forces to create something truly special. We are passionate about crafting a world of unmatched comfort, and we're excited to help you achieve your best sleep ever!

Ariel Kaye: I have long been a fan of Petite Plume - I bought a set of matching pajamas for the holidays for myself and kids a few years back and that has since become part tradition. They are so comfortable and the perfect thing to wear when you crawl into a Parachute bed. I have also had the pleasure of getting to know Emily, Petite Plume's Founder and CEO. In one of our early conversations, we casually mentioned how great it would be to partner together - and here we are (many years later) celebrating a collection that we are so proud of! To me, the best collaborations have a human relationship behind them. I find that having an authentic and mutual adoration for each brand tends to allow both partners to really stand out. When you work with brands with similar values, it makes everything easier and more fun. In our case, we really both focus on comfort and quality, and I'm very pleased with how that has come through in the final product. 

You can check out Petite Plume’s Landing Page here and Parachute’s Landing Page here. With a collab like this I also like seeing how two different brands approach Landing Page experiences. If you work in Site Merchandising or Ecommerce it is worth checking out. I love how Parachute brought in the slippers to the page. This is also a time to shop for Holiday PJ sets (Petite Plume has cute Halloween/Fall ones too) and Parachute is also running a limited time 20% off bundles at the time of my writing this send. (I love my Parachute bedding!)

La Ligne x Nori

• La Ligne x Nori: I notice a huge difference in the look of my cashmere sweaters when I regularly take care of them. I try to use a shaver quarterly to clean up but this Nori one (I tested last night) is impressive! So easy to use and the output is great. I’ll be shaving my sweaters much more regularly this Fall/Winter and my sweaters will be well cared for. (PS you can also purchase from Nori here.) A few more notes:

  • Love that a RTW brand partnered with the clothing care company. No overlap in products sold but major affinity between the two brands. Both are accessible luxury (La Ligne = accessible luxury sweaters and Nori = accessible luxury tools.) You can find both types of products less expensive but the quality isn’t the same. These are aligned.

  • Perfect timing - right before the holiday season. For the parent/family member/friend who has everything and loves fashion or caring for their closet this is a great item to gift.

  • Packaging on Nori is upscale - think of how Apple packages the iPhone but for a fabric shaver. I assume this was the inspiration as it is for a lot of technology products.

  • I was messaging with another amazing brand Founder, Lindsay Silberman of Hotel Lobby Candle and she mentioned this too: “Such a power move. I feel like a lot of brands would see it as some kind of admission of guilt or faulty product, even though sweaters obviously pill! love that La Ligne leaned in.” I agree 1000%. I buy products I love but I wear them all the time. I wear my La Ligne sweaters a few times a week (sometimes even when I’m warming up for a workout and I’ve just put a sweater over my workout clothes.) So I WEAR my clothes. I expect them to show wear. But I expect to be able to take care of them and have them last. Love that a sweater shaver “endorsed” by the clothing brand will help keep my closet in shape.

  • Loving co-Founder and Chief Brand Officer Meredith Melling’s La Ligne Instagram post on this.

  • I added some videos and Before & After to my Instagram Stories.

  • Rest of the details about the La Ligne x Nori: Key features include wireless, rechargeable functionality with a USB-C charging cord and up to 1-hour shaving time, compatibility with all fabrics, a 2.5-inch shaving area with six precision razor blades—the highest on the market—and a large detachable lint collector for easy clean-up. Retails for $59. Note this is a limited time product (and I would assume limited quantities.) It’s really great y’all.

Fashion & Beauty Collabs

• Birkenstock x Filson collab on 3 styles based on Birkenstock’s popular soles and designs with Filson materials and the two outdoorsy brands work well together. Launching early next week.

• Tuckernuck x India Hicks on a capsule collection. India Hicks is a British Designer, Author and Entrepreneur. FYI looks like she also has an upcoming Book Talk at the Tuckernuck in Washington D.C. on October 23rd.

  • Earlier this week I commented on Instagram Stories that I felt like Tuckernuck (founded 2012) took over where Piperlime (closed 2015) left off. Anyone want me to elaborate on this in the future?

  • Back to Tuckernuck x India Hicks, a few highlights that are super relevant: the pussy bow blouse is around a lot this season, leopard is shown a lot in this collab and the caftans speak to Hicks’ Harbour Island life.

New Launches

Fashion Launches

• Maybe technically a collab, but because of the 🚀 of it all, it has to be filed under LAUNCHES. Do we think I could study, train and be ready to go to space by 2026? Prada has partnered with Axiom Space for perhaps the most stylish space suit ever. Sadly no Prada triangle (although many people would be fans of the logo-less Prada.)

• MyTheresa launched their exclusive Tod’s collection this week. The highlights include velvet items in jewel tones like these fancy ballet flats, a velvet blazer and other gorgeous items like this leather light chestnut pencil skirt and these shiny patent loafers.

• Dorsey launched their Winter 2024 collection and it is gorgeous for holiday. A few stand out pieces: the earrings in crystal emerald and lab grown sapphire are perfect dazzlers for holiday parties and holiday photos (bring the eye to the face/smile) and under $200. The other piece I’m also super intrigued by, and love for something new and fresh, is the Delphine Collar available in gold vermeil with a lab grown white sapphire clasp ($990) and silver with a lab grown white sapphire clasp ($850). This collar is such a cool piece to layer with or wear alone.

• Hill House Home dropped their second of three Holiday collections, The Tartan Collection. Perfect for holiday dressing, holiday photos and stretchy Nap dresses for Thanksgiving feasts. I’m a fan of the fancy Ellie Nap Dresses and the Moody Bird Brocade delivers.

• Rothy’s latest launches: a backpack in their signature fabric (fits a 16” laptop) and a bit loafer with simple hardware. You should check out the nubs on the bottom of the loafer for nice detail and the micro check pattern is executed well.

• Sporty & Rich saddled up for Equestrian Girl Fall.

• Still Here NYC launched belts to pair with their denim and pants. They have extra long looks, studs and double clasps.

• The latest dachshund bag (aka East-West) is this cool nylon shopper from Parker Thatch. It is in cool color blocked colors and is the perfect size for running errands and heading to the farmer market. Check out the Retail Diary East-West edit here.

Beauty Launches

• InnBeauty Project launched their Home & Away Extreme Cream bundle where you can get a full size, travel size and velvet pouch of their Extreme Cream for 33% off regular retail. This is also in their Holiday Gifts Landing Page that just launched. The page has some great items to gift AND this week they are running an additional 20% off all sets. They assorted their Holiday Gifts Landing Page really well - opening price points (like this $18 Candy Apple Lip Oil) all the way up to $177 with this Skincare Vault (for 8 pieces and usually $254 if bought a la carte.)

Field Notes

Alex Mill - A Shopping Destination

Alex Mill just launched “In Great Company” and oh my - first pass I’m super impressed. This should be solid revenue for Holiday Shopping and self gifting. Some quick highlights:

• Sesa Boat Shoes made in Marche, Italy since 1976.

• Schostal x Alex Mill Pajama Set looks super luxe and crisp.

• How yummy is this Owen Barry x Alex Mill Shearling Jacket? I can see how

  somsack sikhounmuong
  is obsessed. Now I am too. All the Owen Barry x Alex Mill jackets are incredible and feel like investment pieces you could wear forever.

• Embellished socks to wear with cute loafers. An easy pick up gift that still feels like a special treat.

• Cavan & Co Heritage T-shirt is a great ribbed stripe. Made in PA on vintage Italian knitting machines.

• An assortment of Dragon Diffusion bags. Did you know each bag has a St. Christopher charm (the patron saint of travelers) hand-sewn inside?

• A few other October delivery treats: this blanket stitch cardigan with a matching scarf (added to the blanket stitch edit I wrote about here), corduroy pants with an easy fit, the Quinn Quilted Jacket and a cotton cashmere stripe turtleneck to go with it all.

The Cat Section

• I wrote about Leopard in Retail Diary’s recent Sunday Scoop (see here) and I love the additional insights from Vanessa Friedman in the recent NYTimes article “Will Leopard Print Ever Go Out of Style?” with this quote “According to Alexandra Van Houtte, the founder of the fashion search engine Tagwalk, leopard print is up 944 percent in collections this fall.” Since CBK’s leopard coat is going up for auction, here is one from Rixo that is well priced that you can get your paws on.

• Puma Speedcats are racing to the starting line as the shoe to watch. +65% in the past month on google trends according to

  Style Analytics
  . Sold out on Puma’s website so you know they are focusing on increasing production to reach demand as much as possible. In the meantime, check out this site for some options.

New Finds I’m obsessed with

• I was asked by a reader about Intimate Apparel that isn’t Victoria’s Secret. I’ll share some highlights in the Sunday Scoop on 10/20/24.

• There is now a Kindle in color - the Kindle Colorsoft**. I read mostly on a Kindle these days and seeing this makes me want an upgrade. This will be on my wishlist (Danny you did ask me to start tagging so here you go.)

• Hoping this is a Holiday preview, Neiman Marcus has BonBon NYC candy. Can’t you see Neimans doing a pretend BonBon NYC play store for kids in the Holiday Catalog?

• I love this Ferragamo mini bag - the small version of the Hug bag. Cute name, cute shape.

• You know how denim sweatpants are a thing? I got my Gen Alpha daughter this Z Supply knit denim shirt* and oh wow! It is so soft. Use code ZS-SARAHS15 for 15% at checkout.

• FYI - I mentioned in Sunday’s Scoop that Left on Friday had a great campaign with 100% of proceeds going to The BC Cancer Foundation. LoF reached out and offered Retail Diary readers a 10% discount on their first purchase. Use code SARAH10 for 10% off until Tuesday October 29th. If you are looking for products to try this is my favorite bathing suit and I also love their activewear like these leggings and this sports bra (or crop top depending on what you are comfortable with.)

A whole smorgasbord this week.

New Store Openings & Pop-Ups

• Rhode is popping up in London!

• Toronto, lucky you, Literary Sport is having a pop-up October 17-19th if you want to see the products in person.

🛍️ Quick note: I write a lot (too much good stuff to share!) so if you’re reading via email only, you may need to click through to the web version or read on the Substack app. I promise it will be worth it. 🛍️

The Business Section

LVMH Earnings

I’ll break down the details. How do I feel about this? Not worried. Businesses fluctuate. They will be fine. Do they have some adjustments to make and strategies to work on? Yes. More on that below.

TL;DR: LVMH's Q3 earnings missed expectations, with a 4.4% revenue drop, primarily due to cooling Chinese luxury spending and broader global slowdown in luxury demand. This is a signal for the entire luxury sector as LVMH is considered the luxury business to watch (mostly because of it’s size and reach.)

The details:

• Numbers: Fashion/leather goods down 5% (vs expected +1% growth)