Sunday Scoop - Sézane, American Sportswear & Fashionphile Trends
Plus so much more! Leopard trend, Retail Reads and Skincare that is helping my skin and keeping it happy.
Retail Reads:
Retail
Clare Waight Keller, new Creative Director at Uniqlo, has an accessories collaboration that will be launching at Reformation.
- alerted me to the new Z3D collection at Zara. This is aimed at 14+ year olds and I think it is a smart move. I haven’t seen the items yet, but if it is designed for this demographic and is truly items they want, I think it can do really well. Tweens and teens like shopping at Zara and having items that are aimed specifically for high schoolers is a way to make discovery easy. There is a Gen Alpha in my house that while younger than 14 will be excited to check it out. I’ll let you know what we both think when it launches.
Zara x Kate Moss will launch November 30th - what an excellent collab for party wear. In 2007 and 2010 Moss collabed with Top Shop.
Rory Satran dug into the Sneex story “Spanx Made Her a Billionaire. Will Sneex Be Her Undoing.” (gift link to read behind paywall.) I am curious as to how Sneex becomes a brand with new styles and if there is enough interest to make the brand grow and build revenue. I’m sure a few of Blakely’s fans have purchased now but will they continue? And how much will Blakely continue to fund vs let the brand fund itself to see if there is interest and a need for Sneex to exist.
Misty White Sidell wrote “Resilience Has Taken Her From ‘The Hills’ to Brooklyn Heights” about Glossier’s latest fragrance launch with two new fragrances Glossier You Reve and Glossier You Doux (building upon Glossier You which sells one unit every twenty seconds.) (FYI, Glossier is having a 20% off Surprise Sale now.)
Fashion
After 4 years at Fendi, Kim Jones is stepping down as artistic director of womenswear and couture. He will continue as the menswear designer at Dior.
As part of the second annual Sotheby’s Fashion Icons sale, 3 of Carolyn Bessette Kennedy’s looks (a coat from a Parisian flea market, a Prada Coat circa appox 1996 and a Yohji Yamamoto skirt suit) will be put up for auction. All three of the items are from friend and former executive assistant to John F. Kennedy Jr. RoseMarie Terenzio.
Kamala Harris on the Vogue digital cover and the accompanying article. Rachel Tashjian wrote about this cover “Vogue Finally Gets Kamala Harris Right” (gift link to read behind paywall.) Reminder, do you have your plan to vote? My mail in ballot just arrived and I’m so ready. Sporting this tshirt as my plea to make sure everyone votes.
I’ve talked about Alaia’s Le Teckel Handbag a bunch (see here and here) and I appreciate this NYTimes article “Did a Small Dog Inspire the Next ‘It’ Bag?” looking at the daschund as inspiration for handbags. And if you like the East-West shape here is my edit. For another fun handbag article in the WSJ I liked “Does a ‘Status Handbag’ Still Have Status in 2024? We Investigate.” (gift link to read behind paywall) by Faran Krentcil.
Sézane: French Girl Style & American Fans
Okay - I was thrilled when I saw Chavie Leiber’s article in the WSJ “The Fashion Brand That’s French Enough for Parisians” (gift link to read behind paywall) because so many Retail Diary readers have wanted to chat about Sézane, the brand and the intrigue behind it. Let’s get into it.
TL;DR: Sézane, a French fashion brand founded in 2013, has successfully captured the essence of "French Girl" style, growing into a $450 million business. The brand is now expanding globally, particularly in the US market, while maintaining its unique French allure through carefully curated collections, limited drops, and immersive retail experiences.
Let’s dig a little deeper:
Curated Scarcity Strategy: Sézane employs a drop model releasing limited quantities of seasonal collections alongside year-round "essentials." This creates high demand and a sense of exclusivity. This strategy fuels desire for the brand and maintains its perceived uniqueness in a crowded market.
Omnichannel Retail Experience: The brand has successfully translated its online presence into physical retail spaces, called "appartements." These stores are designed to immerse customers in the French lifestyle, complete with carefully curated decor and greetings of "bonjour." This approach creates a cohesive brand experience across digital and physical touchpoints, reinforcing the brand's identity and appeal. Currently Sézane only has 5 US locations. NYC, San Francisco, LA, Austin and Washington D.C.
Mid-market Positioning with Luxury Appeal: Sézane has found a sweet spot in the market by offering elevated basics at appropriately priced items. This positioning allows them to attract customers looking for quality and style without high-end price tags. The brand's strong resale value on secondary markets further reinforces its perceived quality and desirability, setting it apart from fast fashion competitors.
A few opportunities I see:
First, and most importantly, I think their website needs some improvement for the US consumer. The categories in the navigation could be cleaned up (ex what is “tshirts and tops” vs “shirts and blouses”? Isn’t a “Top” a “Shirt”?) Additionally, it is overwhelming to shop the site - take “Knitwear” as an example. You need to filter into a sub-category, like “cardigan” to have an improved shopping experience. In Site Merchandising I often say “get me to the good stuff” and on this site it takes too long to get to the good stuff.
Gap has been on a roll with collabs getting press and interest with Doen, Mad Happy and Cult Gaia. What if they did a collab with Sézane to really make a splash in the US even more? My guess is Sézane might still have decent coastal awareness but could use a lot more across all of the US market. J.Crew could be another solid collab. Another option would be Shop in Shops within Nordstrom. It looks like Sézane has been on Nordstrom.com and part of Anniversary Sale in the past but I’m not seeing anything at the moment.
Americans are obsessed with french beauty. Whether it is the casual undone-but-done hair and make-up looks or a good French Pharmacy find. I’d love to see Sézane partner with beauty to bring to the US some items that aren’t as big here. Sézane does have their own fragrance, but they could easily do a kit or a few other items. They have fun beauty pouches so fill them up with finds or collab with Violette if that feels like a solid fit.
With the launch of Petit Sézane (kids) there feels like even more opportunity in the US. A brand that fits into the Janie & Jack, Mini Boden, Crew Cuts space but doesn’t feel overly crowded. Also, plenty of “coordinating” looks for the family. Oh yeah, and there is Sézane Mens too.
A bunch of Sézane items have been best sellers for Retail Diary. Here are a few items you are loving:
This jacket from the Suede Fall Trend Forecast
The Betty Cardigan has this great blanket stitch that has been trending as a detail this season. You can read more about it here.
The Max Shirt is a best seller for a good reason. It has universal appeal.
The really bright, fun and cheery red patent tote.
And some new items: this coat is really well done. A knit dress that would be perfect all winter long. A handbag to rival many designer iterations.
Fashionphile - Trend Report
🛍️ Quick note: I write a lot (too much good stuff to share!) so if you’re reading via email only, you may need to click through to the web version or read on the Substack app. I promise it will be worth it. 🛍️
Fashionphile published their 2024 Ultra Luxury Resale Report. Smart to publish ahead of gift giving season for anyone looking for ideas to purchase for someone else and needing direction. I do love digging into this to decipher what is selling.
First, worth noting that Fashionphile is celebrating 25 years. Impressive in the Retail Industry. A look at how the industry has changed: “The numbers don’t lie: In 2023, the global secondhand market was estimated to be worth $197 billion. This value is projected to increase by roughly $100 billion by 2026.”
A few notable brands Fashionphile has recently added to their directory (and all smart investments for Fashionphile to start stocking): The Row, Khaite, Loro Piana (and oh my! the price of these New Balance x Loro Piana Sneakers!), Phoebe Philo and Jacquemus.
Legacy Handbags still winning: key handbags were the Goyard St Loius +11% in sales and the Loewe Puzzle Bag +58% in sales units.
East-West silhouette trending in resale too: I wrote about this silhouette earlier this year here. But it was up 229% in resale.
The report also gets into 2025 trend predictions and demographic spending.
Field Notes
American Sportswear & Minimalism
I love this article from BoF about a new generation of more refined fashion labels that are quickly growing. Think Attersee, TWP, Kallmeyer and Co. “Why Fashion is Maxing out on Minimalism.” These brands were described as The Row challenger brands but I think of them as brands that see an opportunity in the market and designing for the modern woman. This is a great quote from Isabel Wilkinson Schor on her label Attersee
“I was really seeking something that was comfort-driven, polished, easy and approachable, but elevated. It was a very personal need that I was filling.”
Exactly a year ago I wrote a Fashion Spiral on American Sportswear and I could write an update or V2 as there has continued to be so much growth in this area.
A few favorite finds:
I bought this shirt for fall from TWP and I love it. The length is great, I love the sleeve details and it is so crisp and easy to wear. In the article above Kirna Zabete Founder Beth Buccini mentions that they have had an incredibly strong sell-thru and I believe it.
Loving this Co wool-blend check trench coat for the silhouette and this Midi dress is a forever classic.
This Kallmeyer Leather Jacket was tagged in multiple Substacks recently but this brushed ponte jacket is perfect for work and I love this dark denim take on the Chore Coat.
Attersee has a fresh take on the pencil skirt and fantastic cashmere tshirts.
I would also throw in High Sport pants into the mix.
G. Label also has some great pieces including their latest delivery that just arrived today like a funnel neck sweatshirt, long trouser skirt and a gorgeous double breasted overcoat.
Let’s Roar
It’s Leopard Print time in the fashion cycle (see here and here) but I also noticed that we are hearing more about cow print (see here, what
wrote here and vintage round-up here.)Hint hint - Loeffler Randall has so many great leopard items they need to turn this into an Edit in the navigation to make it easy to shop (they currently have a few in color theory collection and a bunch from “New Arrivals”), add SEO and they can also create digital ads that lead to a LP1 for anyone shopping for Leopard Print. They should also add “Leopard” as a color in the filter tab.
Ganni has some great items like this Leopard work dress and this Leopard denim jacket with a great shape.
Shoes: my favorite loafers in pony hair leopard print, easy ballet flat that acts as a neutral and the red sole accent makes these boots extra sexy.
The midi skirt is still pretty perfect here. Loving this ready for work (or play) version from M.M. La Fleur and the fit is great too.
Intarsia wool cardigan takes a basic silhouette into a unique piece.
Leopard print felt hats always sold well when I was a Hat Buyer and I really like the idea of a Leopard print baseball cap.
And if you want to try cow print, I’ve mentioned the East-West handbag and Le Teckel in this send so please check this out! Love.
Beauty Finds
My latest favorites for a clean and glow-y face without a facial.
I’ve been slathering on InnBeauty Project’s Extreme Cream most nights and this week they launched a great set Extreme Cream Home & Away Kit - you can get 1 regular size and one travel size (with a travel pouch). Perfect as a gift or self purchase so you don’t have to take the full size when you travel. With the set you save 33%, you’ll get free shipping and for new orders use code New15 for 15% off.
I’m so excited because I found a cleanser that is gentle and it has that satisfying lather! My face can feel so tight after washing but the Gentle Micellar Antioxidant Cleanser* from The Outset has been working out so well for my face. I’ve been using for a few weeks and it isn’t drying at all and takes off all the sunscreen, makeup, sweat and dirt. No breakouts either. I’m happy with this new find. (Use code Sarah20 for 20% off.)
Unfortunately I haven’t had a facial in awhile, but I’ve noticed after using this combo every night I feel like I still have that facial glow. The PDP2 states to refill every 4 weeks but mine is lasting much much longer (I think I’m in month 3 of using the original bottles.)
Odds & Ends
The October Delivery from Alex Mill is unreal! It is so good. I’ll dig into some favorites in the Deep Dive but do yourself a favor and check it out now. And I’m not just saying this because they called Retail Diary a top 10 Substack to read along with 9 other favorites I have! Swoon - week made.
Thank you to Ann Mashburn for sharing ways to style one of my favorite new dresses*. I got a bunch of compliments when I wore this week. I love the weight of the dress, the deep pockets and the silhouette. It is so easy to style and wear. This week I wore with my fancy ballet flats, my favorite Jenni Kayne Cardigan (which is currently $100 off) and this easy Attersee pouch.
October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month and 100% of proceeds from Left on Friday’s Check Yourself collection will go to the BC Cancer Foundation. Might I suggest, pretty much the only swimsuit I wear, in hot pink (fits true to size) and plan to wear for your next warm weather getaway knowing that you gave back while you shopped.
I was a little negative on Sara Blakely above about Sneex, but after reading
’s Subtack on what briefs to wear with jeans I ordered this pair. I’ve already received in the mail, worn, and promptly ordered more so I can wear more than once a week. I like them.Are we all reading
? If not, go subscribe. It has been so so good lately. Like this post on how to deal with jealousy. Yes, it’s about Substack but the tips and feelings are so relevant with work in general.I’m not
my favorite items - thank you to for interviewing me and sharing some of my favorite items (and tasty treats) in her Substack here.
Enjoy your Sunday Scoop. xx
Sarah Shapiro
What’s Next
I’ve been digging into Affiliate Links and Retail Opportunities and I cannot wait to share with you next week. This is a fun piece I haven’t seen or heard talked about much. I plan to publish in the Deep Dive Thursday but if there is a lot of other news next week I might break it out. Keep an eye on your inbox or Substack.
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FYI: I use affiliate links where applicable which means I may get a small commission from things you buy (at no cost to you.) Thank you for supporting my work and trusting me. Love that we can enjoy Fashion & Retail together in this space.
Items marked with * have been kindly gifted by brands. Thoughts, selections, and reviews are my own.
**Amazon Affiliate link
LP = Landing Page
PDP = Product Detail Page
Loved your analysis on Sezane! In my opinion, one other opportunity for them would be to provide pictures of items on their website. Although I love the Sezane styling and the pictures on the website are incredibly dreamy, sometimes I can't even see the item clearly. This has prevented me from adding an item to cart in the past, because I hate wasting time to order something that I'll just have to return.
Clearly I’ve got Zara on the brain this week! Also you were VERY kind about Sneex. I truly do not understand what she is thinking…