Retail Rundown: Mara Hoffman, Fashion Podcasts & What's Trending

Retail What To Know: More Gap thoughts, Mara Hoffman "pausing," remembering Bruce Nordstrom, Fashion Podcasts I loved, Trends & Shopping Notes.

May 21, 2024

🛍️ Quick note: I write a lot (too much good stuff to share!) so if you’re reading via email only, you may need to click through to the web version or read on the Substack app. I promise it will be worth it. 🛍️

What I’m thinking about:

Good news? Love to see this, Ara Katz from Seed Probiotics helped out Molly Baz and her impressive billboard in Times Square. (Didn’t love that the original billboard was taken down, but sadly feels par for the course these days.)

Want a quick recap on Gap? Check out my Instagram Reel here. Anne Hathaway at Cannes, Gorgeous!! This is what Zac Posen should be directing for Gap merchandise. I want to see this look recreated for the stores as a dress (I’d retail at $128), top ($68 for this) and skirt (I’d retail at $78.) Have it hit stores in June (how do you do that? It should have already been developed in tandem with the Cannes look.) Done and Done.

As for my Gap x Dôen thoughts, really bummed out about the execution. I had hoped with an early drop Thursday to surprise and delight customers seeding the loyal fans, the inventory would be restocked for the official drop Friday at noon ET, which is what they put their advertising $$$ behind to launch. Instead they launched online with many sizes and styles already out of stock. A bit of a miss as you can tell by the comments on the social media posts. I ordered and liked most of what I received. The Eyelet Mini Dress was a basic shift but the neck felt too high and overall too boxy on me (I prefer this from Dôen better), these jeans were surprisingly great on (remember I’m 5ft 2in) but I don’t think I’d wear enough to make them worth it (looked great with the top I kept - Cropped Eyelet in white), this dress was heavy and didn’t love the top. The only item I’m keeping is the white top - because it is similar to my favorite Henri top that I own in black and I know I will wear.1

What else I’m reading…📰

Fashion Designer, and sustainable fashion advocate, Mara Hoffman has announced that she will take a pause on her business after 24 years. In 2023 she was the recipient of the CFDA Environmental Sustainability Award. Her final collection is now available on her site and her swimsuits have a cult following, especially the color blocks and high waisted bottoms. Hoffman’s Popcorn Collection is also incredibly popular.
Remembering Bruce Nordstrom who passed away this weekend. He was 90 years old and the grandson of John Nordstrom, the founder of the department store. Passionate about shoes, he started his career in the family business at age 9 specializing in the shoe department and he was also responsible for launching the Nordstrom Rack division (aka off-price retail.)

What I’m listening to…🎧

Enjoyed catching up with my podcasts on a walk outside today.

Listening to the latest episode of A Thing or Two with Claire and Erica was so fun and like chatting with a group of friends. I took a few notes to share:
- Love Anya Hindmarch as gifting ideas. So many great organizing pieces. This would be a great gift for the fashion friend who is graduating or has a fancy new job. Here is the article they mentioned from 2019 in the NYTimes with all the organizing tips (gift link to read behind paywall.) A few pieces I love: this monogrammed with something personal, you know I love this and here via TRR.
- Proenza Schouler tshirts - great quality and graphic prints. Here on The RealReal (love this ice dye print), and a few on the PS site here (love the pop of blue) and here.
- Claire and Erica talked about their love of the pointelle Donni t-shirts and they also mentioned the rib kick flare which I talk about a lot (too much? Maybe….) and wanting to try the silk pants which have strong reviews on the site. I’d love a lightweight pair of pants to wear all summer and while I don’t love linen personally, this silk (rayon) could be nice if it wears well. Anyone tried yet? Since the pants are rayon I think I could cold wash on delicate and get hemmed after I wash at least 1 time since rayon can shrink.
Continuing my love for all interviews with
Nikki Ogunnaike
. Listening to the interview today with Alyssa Vingan on The New Garde. Learned that Ogunnaike is launching a Podcast later this month (longer walks for me so I can add to my queue) and this interview with Vingan was filled with excellent career advice. For media or any career really.
Liv Perez interviewed Pia Mance, founder of Heaven Mayhem jewelry (and belts) line on Let’s Get Dressed.

What I’m watching…📺

I didn’t rush to finish the last episode of Girls on the Bus, but only because I didn’t want it to end! Such a great show. The cliffhanger at the end had me searching today what the plan is for Season 2 and how quickly it might be back. The characters, the banter, the pace, the costumes - I love it all.

Trend Spotting…🎯

This weekend I attended a good friend’s daughter’s Bat Mitzvah. Such a special day and of course at the party that night to celebrate I couldn’t help but pick up on a few trends:
- My friends and I all had similar shoes on for the party - a two piece sandal with an ankle strap and a block heel in the 60mm range (about 2.5 inches.) I bought mine from TRR last year before a wedding. Brand new, never worn and I love them. Alexandre Birman Clarita in the black suede. I found a pair here for $64!, same style in tan suede, gold leather and gingham. My girlfriends were wearing shoes similar to this but all in gold- same idea. Low block heel, open toe sandal, ankle strap. Perfect for dancing and works well with a variety of looks (we all wore LBDs and one friend looked fabulous in an emerald green.)
- This has been happening for awhile, but I love how the young girls wear easy short dresses (this was my daughters, but this style is popular too) with comfortable sneakers. This would have never flown when I was younger. We had to wear Jessica McClintock pouffy dresses with Sam & Libby large bow ballet flats. I love a comfortable sneaker that you can run around and dance in but also wear all the time - no need for a pair of shoes you only wear a few times.
Other Trends
The Vest is sticking around and it checks so many boxes. Menswear, Corporate Fetish (thanks for this term
Emily
), Transitional (Winter to Spring, Summer to Fall) and in light fabrics ideal for Summer. There are some structured styles, I have this one, and I love this Kallmeyer and this too. I also really love the knit jersey vests like this (great pop of color and available in a range of sizes) and this in organic linen in a range of sizes. Attersee makes a gorgeous vest that is designed to be worn as a dress, or not. Easy to find at a variety of price points and layer over and under.
I recently mentioned that
Dianna Cohen
’s Crown Affair was launching their new Air Dry Mousse (available today at Crown Affair and Sephora) and in the Sunday edition of
After School by Casey Lewis
, Lewis raved about the new Oribe Hair Alchemy Heatless Hair Styling Balm - so now two new air dry for prime summer air dry season. Love that the Oribe is in the popular stick of butter yellow color (thank you
Harling Ross Anton
for creating the term and fans for the past decade.)
Rachel Tashjian linked to these beauties from Tory Burch in her Opulent Tips email and I couldn’t help but think they are a great early Fall grab to take Mary Janes to the next level.

Shopping for…🛍️

Twice a year
Bobbi Brown
has her viral mini Miracle Balms available - and now is one of those times. You can purchase in a set of 4, 8 piece essential or full set of 10. I ordered to play with a set of 4 and also try the popular face pencil. I’ll report back, but if you want the minis I suggest ordering now before the end of this mini opportunity (Memorial Day event.)
- If you are wondering why they only sell the minis twice a year you aren’t the only one. I am curious what would be better for revenue, repeat purchase and loyalty.
- BUT I’ll break down what I love about the strategy of only dropping twice a year.
  - drives trial during this time period
  - drives urgency
  - surprise and delight - can’t always get it so makes it more special
  - during the rest of the year you have to upsell/upgrade to the full size
  - always curious if this also helps manage inventory and minimums. While some commenters are frustrated that they can’t select their own shades for the 4 count, 8 count - I understand as the retailer. You want to have consumers buy for a purpose - each type of shade is built for a certain application - blush, bronzer, highlighter etc and removing choice makes it more likely that the consumer will purchase. Too many choices creates the paradox of choice.2
- We all know that Bobbi Brown really knows how to build a beauty brand. I love that she is doing it again with Jones Road Beauty for how the consumer shops now. Example with the Face Pencil that I ordered, the suggestion isn’t to purchase one color “concealer” shade but to order 3 different shades so you can build and use for different purposes. This is great for makeup application (you want to highlight and cover in different ways) and the online quiz helps you figure the right shades. AND from a revenue perspective, brilliant! Now customers are building bigger baskets and are more likely to find the shade that works for various areas.
If you are looking for beauty tutorials with Jones Road Beauty, besides
Bobbi Brown
, I suggest checking out
Sarah James
,
Grace Atwood
and
Emese Gormley
.

Leaving you with this: are we sure this SNL skit isn’t a real commercial?

What’s Next 🗓️

Back to a three post week. We will have a Deep Dive on Thursday and Sunday Scoop. I’m watching to see reactions on Summer deliveries and let’s see what the messaging is with Memorial Day and how promotional the retailers get - especially the luxury retailers. I’m also hoping to see some great summer travel activations like the recent Jacquemus campaign.