Retail Diary: This Will Be Quick 3.12.24 - Oscars Fashion Recap & an update for readers

Lots of Oscars fashion news. An update for amazing readers and those looking to level up.

Mar 12, 2024

Images via all the sources linked below.

This Will Be Quick is where I share content that is at the top of my list. Tends to have a fashion or retail focus but not always. Today the major focus is the Oscars, because that is certainly dominating my feed right now.

What I’m listening to…🎧

I know I share the Vogue Run-Through podcast often but they have so much information and it is an enjoyable listen. So if you prefer to listen to your content vs read, this is a must listen. Chioma Nnadi & Chloe Malle recapped the Oscars looks, moments and awards with Taylor Antrim.

Trending…🚀

What is trending from the Oscars

Men in Pins (aka, the Bro-ch)

Getting the top spot in trends - Brooches! Plus I have a soft spot for accessories.1

Cillian Murphy’s stylist Rose Forde met Bertrand Mak who designed the brooch by Sauvereign with Murphy’s character and award season in mind.
The Elsa Peretti Amapola Brooch by Tiffany & Co, worn by Robert Downey Jr. is an incredibly popular style this season. Jeremy Allen White also wore this style (with a red flower vs Downey Jr.’s black flower) (I found the pin here and here on resale and you can purchase here in sterling silver and here in 18k new.)
Brooches and pins are trending for everyone - not just men (see the recent Miu Miu runway.) This trend can be incredibly profitable for retailers. You buy multiple (wear all at once or switch it up) so it can increase AOV2 It is an ideal trend for fall/winter to add to your jackets and I love it in unexpected places too - try adding to a belt, handbag or your waist. This time around adding the unisex element is a plus for retailers. Driving men into accessories more. I’d love to see some Bro-ch sections in Men’s Departments.

Images via GQ, Town & Country and People

Looks to Note

Sydney Sweeney replicates Angelina Jolie’s look for the Vanity Fair after party.
Two Oscars for Louis Vuitton - two winning actresses wearing LV. I’m not sure how much Emma Stone’s dress mishap mattered as a negative impact to the brand image (the zipper opened as she danced to “I’m Just Ken” before receiving her award) after seeing the two winners in LV.
Nominee Lily Gladstone rumored to want to wear a designer look with quillwork in the design. In the end her dream came true and she wore a beautiful and elegant design by Gucci in collaboration with Joe Big Mountain, an Indigenous designer and jeweler (and her jewels were epic!)
The elevated straps on Emily Blunt and Florence Pugh’s dresses didn’t make me personally feel one way or another. I did think it was an interesting trend that the two actors who wore them were both in Oppenheimer and on stage at the end of the evening together. I was trying to figure out if there was any planning or meaning to the raised strap, or just a coincidence. (Yes, I’m always looking for trends.) And bold shoulders and necklines were a trend I spotted.
Speaking of bold shoulders, Sandra Hüller looked amazing in Schiaparelli and many were wondering if she might wear Phoebe Philo as she is now the face of the latest edit.
Lovely theory on America Ferrera and Margot Robbie’s looks for the Oscars.
Preview as to what will come for the Wicked press tour.
My favorite quick read fashion recap from the night was
Amy Odell
’s on
Back Row
“Arbitrary Fashion Oscars.”
Emilia Petrarca
has a recap of many of the looks. See the details in Petrarca’s recap about Michelle Yeoh’s Balenciaga look. Reading the details reminded me of the recent upcycled bra dress we just saw on the runway, also by Balenciaga.
For the first time ever, Balenciaga recreated a look from their archives for Carey Mulligan. Lovely detail that the dress is from the 1951 runway show as it was the same year that Felicia Montealegre-Bernstein and Leonard Bernstein were married.

What I’m reading…📚

A few quick pieces I’m enjoying:

Still on the fashion runway show theme that just ended last week, this Substack by
emily north
lays out how to potentially3 have a viral moment in a fashion show. Or at least, some elements to consider. “The Recipe for Fashion Show Virality.”
I find it so interesting how
Gab Waller
has created a brand and business around Fashion Sourcing. AKA a personal shopper who can get the sold out, hard to find items. Personal Shopping at scale.
EYCE
wrote about the CX4, Branding and OOB5 for Gab Waller’s services “How Gab Waller is Winning Gold in the Fashion Sourcing Olympics.”

What I’m watching…📺

The Oscars! When I hopped on my Peloton this weekend I saw an in house ad to sweat it out and stream the Oscars from Youtube on the Peloton. I thought that was a smart play. Although I did watch it from my couch with my family and a bowl of popcorn.

Last Bits…📣

Feeling the Ken-ergy:
- Diamonds are a Girls Best Ken and comparison and details here from Zanna Rassi on Instagram
- Fun facts from Kirbie Johnson’s Instagram on the performance.
- All the amazing details about how the show-stopping number came to be in this NYTimes article (gift link to read behind paywall.)
Veering from the Oscars, I’m also very intrigued by what is going on with the Royals Photoshop missteps. The only person I trust to keep me updated is
Elizabeth Holmes
so I’m following her Instagram and waiting for a Substack to update on what all of this means for the “brand” and how it was handled.

Quick Update:

I've introduced a paid subscription option, but don't fret – all the fashion, news and insights you love currently remains free with an option to tip. Think of it as buying me a virtual Diet Coke to fuel more fashion and retail explorations together if you are able to or really level up for a Professional Member.

Why the change? Well, it's all part of my strategy to grow and bring you even more amazing insights. Plus, rumor has it, Substack's algorithm gives a little extra love to creators offering paid subscriptions. (Substack takes 10% of all paid subscriptions FYI)

But here's the thing: your support means the world to me, whether it's through sharing my posts, hitting the like button (the ❤️ at the bottom), dropping a comment or joining the chat. Those little gestures truly make my day.

An exciting new layer, for anyone wanting to get even more personalized insights and recommendations is the ability to sign up as a Professional Member. What is included in a Professional Member Tier? There will be a 30 min video meeting one-on-one with me and you can pick the topic. This would be a great opportunity to discuss retail strategy or gain insights on a merchandising assortment, etc. A Professional Membership can be valuable if you are able to expense through work and would love to explore feedback or discuss strategy and trends. Also consider a Professional Member as a gift for someone looking to start a career in fashion and retail and would want to ask about how to get started, launch a business or pivot their career towards Fashion & Retail.

So, dive into Sarah's Retail Diary, soak up the inspiration, engage in conversations and ask questions as always. Know that your support keeps this retail adventure going strong. No pressure, just gratitude that we have a space to chat retail, fashion and trends.

What’s Next 🗓️

Retail Math 101: Markdowns (Part Deux) will be published March 15th. I have two Spring Fashion Spirals scheduled for March too. It feels like we’ve pushed through a lot of content the past month - all the fashion shows plus the Oscars. Spring is in full swing and I think we are moving back to wear now stories and of course more updates on luxury retail following Matches (catch up via my Sunday Scoop.)

P.S. If you are wondering “who is Sarah and why am I reading her diary” (it’s okay - I give you permission) check more out here.